The Ship Model Forum

[quote="Guest"]Resin flash and 3D parts - two DELICATE subjects.

Have you asked ISW's Jon Warneke for replacement parts? He is a great guy to work with. He has sent me replacement parts, at no cost, for many of my disasters.

I find one-piece 3D parts much easier to use (no bending pe nor gluing several plastic or pe subassemblies) and I freely substitute 3D weapons, gun directors, deck and ASW accessories, and rafts and boats for the clunkier parts in older resin and plastic kits. Try Kraken Hobbies' Matt Keough, Black Cat Models' Ben Druel, and Model Monkey Steve Larsen for their incredible 3D offerings. Sure, it adds to the cost of your kit, but the results are gratifying.

The #11 Xacto blade is my old friend, along with 400 grit sandpaper and emery boards. My cuts are cleaner since Matt introduced me to two very sharp tools: Mr. Hobby's MT102:1800 sprue cutter and Xuron's 9180ET pe scissor.

And, finally, my work apron that is velcroed (sp?) to the bottom-front of my workbench still catches many errant parts before the carpet monster eats them.[/quote] I haven't yet. I figured I would try removing the flash and hope that it turns out easier than it appears. If there are any disasters, I will probably see about getting replacement parts.

Resin flash and 3D parts - two DELICATE subjects.

Have you asked ISW's Jon Warneke for replacement parts? He is a great guy to work with. He has sent me replacement parts, at no cost, for many of my disasters.

I find one-piece 3D parts much easier to use (no bending pe nor gluing several plastic or pe subassemblies) and I freely substitute 3D weapons, gun directors, deck and ASW accessories, and rafts and boats for the clunkier parts in older resin and plastic kits. Try Kraken Hobbies' Matt Keough, Black Cat Models' Ben Druel, and Model Monkey Steve Larsen for their incredible 3D offerings. Sure, it adds to the cost of your kit, but the results are gratifying.

The #11 Xacto blade is my old friend, along with 400 grit sandpaper and emery boards. My cuts are cleaner since Matt introduced me to two very sharp tools: Mr. Hobby's MT102:1800 sprue cutter and Xuron's 9180ET pe scissor.

And, finally, my work apron that is velcroed (sp?) to the bottom-front of my workbench still catches many errant parts before the carpet monster eats them.

Use a fresh #11 xacto blade to start with. Cut the pieces out then use the blade and sanding stick to remove the rest of the over pour. It's tedious, but that's one way to do it. I'm sure others will chime in with what works for them.

I'm starting an Iron Shipwrights 1:350 PC-461 kit. It's my second resin ship. The first was an IS torpedo boat. That kit went together easily. On this kit, the hull is nice but the other resin parts are encased in a thin film of flash. I'm worried about cleaning it up, as I fear I'll break the barrels on the 20mm Oerlikons, the 3-inch deck guns and other delicate pieces. Is there a trick to it? I was thinking using an Xacto blade, but I'm afraid I'll do more harm than good.
I've built a lot of plastic models and have had to deal with moderate flash on some older kits, but I was wondering if this is what to expect when dealing with resin?[attachment=0]IMG_20231124_133416764_PORTRAIT.jpg[/attachment]