The Ship Model Forum

Fellow modellers!

I need help , according to the evidence, I have finally started painting the ship
The problem is this: I am depicting the ship in its 1912 state, when all units in the fleet still wore green.
Which color is closest to the one used in the fleet:

- Tamiya XF-89 dark green,
- Tamiya XF-67 NATO green (I think it is too light),
- Mr Hobby H-64 dark green?
I also have Tamiya XF-11 and Mr Hobby H-36 in stock, but I think they are absolutely far from good.

I read that the closest would be Humbrol 31, according to a 1997 article, but Google threw up the name "Slate grey matt", and the color is more gray than green in the pics, plus I would rather use Tamiya or Mr Hobby paint.
Can anyone help? It could be a different paint, I'll buy it if needed

Gentlemen, thank you!


Unfortunately, I haven't been able to work on the ship in the last few months, I had other things to do instead, like a garden, painting the fence, etc.
In the last few days, I've almost finished the masts. I mostly used Eduard etching and Model Master parts for this. The searchlight platform of the rear mast has been slightly modified based on the photos, because the supports are not good either in the 3D model or in the blueprints according to the photos.

The main turrets were also completely finished earlier. In principle, they are ready for painting.

Of course, after I finished with the masts, I pushed the ship, which was on the shelf, and successfully knocked down the funnels... Both were damaged, the steam pipes broke off, and the handrails were also damaged . I fixed it, but obviously it didn't turn out the same as it was...

Excellent work. The PE work is very sharp, and the details on the guns really pop!

Lovely details!
She is going to be a beauty!

Nice work! It's going to be great.

Good evening!

Lately the work has slowed down because spring is coming,and I'm gardening (another big hobby of mine) + I've been building other models. Now I've been messing around with the boats a bit.
Several of the larger ones had to be rebuilt, extra parts had to be built in. Unfortunately, both the model and the Eduard photoetch are inaccurate in many places, but there are some useful parts if you modify them. I replaced the missing details with scrap materials. They would definitely be nicer if 3D printed, but I'll stick to my own level XD

Indeed you are right !

--photos always tell the truth

cheers
JB

Jim, I don't know the reason for this rotation, but the drawing is correct according to the pictures.

all very good-

-but Interesting that the drawing shows the shoulder brace
( Schulter stuetze_ ) to be Horizontal...?

on 3" QF and 4.7" QF the should brace is vertical

Cheers
JB

Great superdetailing work, very convincing look:cool_1:

Greetings!

In the last few days I have been busy replicating the ship's 7 cm guns. I replaced the barrel with a Master MOdel piece, and the copper elements are from the Eduard set. Unfortunately, this does not make the appearance of the guns much better. Of the 3 wheels that help adjust the gun, only 2 pieces were found, but none of them had normal axles. I replaced these with wire, from 1.5-3 mm pieces. To make it a little easier, I did not cut the wheel from the frame, first I glued the axles to them, then carefully cut them from their places and they were mounted on the gun.

I am investigating the possibility of further improvement, because it is not perfect yet, but my eyes are already leaking. Time is passing me by, slowly at the age of 36 I will need a magnifying glass for the pieces like that at the end...

Thank you gentlemen. Not everything is glued in place on the bridge yet, because there are things that I can only glue in place after painting.

I've just started working on the boat cranes in the past few days. I've also added a few small details, because there are some things that neither the factory nor the Eduard etching provides, but I don't understand why (e.g. they provide a spare part for the roller on top of the crane, which is nice, but not the one at the base of the crane arm). The crane itself is full of rivets, so I thought I'd make the thin metal foil I have on hand with this riveter. But it might not be to scale anymore, so I'll sleep on it for a while before I glue it to the crane, maybe the less is more principle works better here.

Bravo !

Your revised bridge looks excellent--

In my view ...
the total collective depth of the old plastic deck -with-rails-on-top-and-under-carriage-structure-underneath

compared to your fine new integral-under-carriage-structure-and-rails-on-side

is now much reduced and is now of scale appearance

I think you have struck the best balance possible.
...and the stanchion corner joins are also much better in appearance.


JB

Excellent work!
I am following it with much interest.

I second that. Well done!

Continued beautiful work.

I think they are not thin. Judging by the last picture, the plates of the bridge are as thick as the plastic parts. Just compare the bridge plates to the plastic parts at the base of the conning tower.

Thanks guys, I've been messing around with things this week too.
I got some good advice from one of our wise hobbyists, I tried to take it.

Commander's bridge: in the first round last year I used the Eduard etching and most of the factory parts, but that made the bridge base and the top a little thicker than they should have been. I didn't like it either, but I had the initial push this weekend: I rebuilt these from copper caps and photo-etched frame pieces. I installed the stiffeners based on the drawings, I think the result is better now than before. Of course, there are still some mistakes (e.g. some are a little asymmetrical because the gelled CA glue set faster...)
As an additional technological problem, I discovered that if all the plates are thin, then it won't be easy to attach them to each other... I'm thinking of the base and the top of the bridge.
I cut off the bottom row of the railings, so now each one is connected to the base plate at 1 point. They won't be visible anyway, because I'll cover them with white glue, imitating the canvas.

I'm waiting for honest opinions, I might be able to take it apart right now.

Goodness goodness me, what fine and neat and exacting work!

That is some fine brass work.