The Ship Model Forum

Timmy she is looking awesome!

hi timmy,i don,t know how fine the pencil you used is, but i found a very fine tipped black pen at staples. it is called micron 005#1 archival ink.it says it is waterproof and fade proof.made by sakura color products japan.it makes a very fine black line,i used it on scribed decking on my roma.heres what it looks like.
your mikasa is looking good,good luck at the show

Timmy,

You do a great job with those hooks and rigging I wish I can match your work - I will be rigging for the first time planning to use stretched sprue and cigarette (I am still a smoker)

Yevgeniy

Thanks for all the replies guys!

@Kostas: As I painted my deck with acrylics, I'm not sure if it'll be a good idea to use oils on it. It's too late to put on barrier coats, too, unfortunately. Maybe next time, hehe.


The rigging is almost finished! Only the two long foremast-bow runs need to be done.

As I have terrible luck with using incense to tighten rigging, I try to make sure they're taut before putting the glue on. In order to make the lines taut, you need to have a strong anchor point at at least one end of the line. Many of the lines terminate at a solid surface perpendicular to the line's direction. In order to not have the line's attachment point to be off-center, I make a small metal eyehook and pass the line through that. Thus, I can apply pressure to the line while maintaining an attachment point relatively close to where it's supposed to be and have a strong attachment point.

In the past two days, I've switched to Uni-Mono nylon monofilament line as my rigging material. It is roughly the same diameter as my medium-size stretched sprue. The main reason of this is due to my inability to reliably stretch sprue that is of consistent diameter.

Asides from constant diameter, an additional benefit of using fly-tying line is that you can tie it! Thus, an even stronger attachment can be done.

The clear property of the line is a mixed blessing - if not under direct light, it will appear dull and the transparentness means it can appear thinner than it actually is. However, if viewed from a different direction, the clearness may bend and focus light from different directions, making the line more obvious to the viewer (and thus appearing thicker than it actually is).

why dont you try some oil washes on the deck?
The kit if i remember well has regressed plank lines which would make it an easy job.
And it will add a lot more depth and color variation from a simple pencil.
And if you are too scared to ruin the paint job remember this:
He who dares wins!!

well most of the times anyway.

Blown away Tim your Mikasa is looking fantastic.
after looking over your build I have had to add a Mikasa to my must get list.

Hi Timmy, thanks for the link through to this project, I see what you mean about the paintwork for the photoetch and it now gives me more confidence for my next kit.
I must say you have done a wonderful job on this one, and I was really amazed that Hasegawa had done a
Pre-Dreadnought ship, it is unusual for a mainstream manufacturer isn't it?
I enjoyed the thread, THANKS.
Ray

Hi Timmy

Very very good
Luciano

Your rigging is very neat Timmy!!



Can't imagine myself building a prewar ship with all those aerials.......

Keep it up!
Nick

Thank you for answer Timmy, I have approximately same situation but as I am much slower then you I will find that coat.

I already read your opinion on coating vs. rigging question in Main Forum after I wrote the question here. So I will coat everything before the rigging. Thanks.

Yevgeniy

Glad you guys find the deck acceptable

I'm actually not going to do a final clear coat - I'll probably brush some flat clear on the deck (because the pencil marks are slightly shiny), but that'll be it. Also, I don't have any acrylic flat spray on hand and it'll be a while till I hit the hobby shop, so that's mainly why

Timmy,

I do not know about deck recesses - your deck now looks like real.

Did you already put finish (lacquer) or you going to put it after everything is complete? Actually I do not know how to do it myself therefore I am asking. Does not it make a "spiderweb" on the rigging when you spray it? (mine - Revell- does).

Yevgeniy

Beautiful work so far, Timmy, very, very neat
I don't agree with you, I like the deck planking recesses also

Phil

Some rigging! I also used a pencil to highlight the deck planking recesses at intervals. It doesn't look very good though

Glad you like them! The only parts of the boats that are PE are the cradles, rudders, oars, and propellers (if applicable).

A note on the large steamboats - I drilled deeper the portholes and funnel top, as they were only very lightly engraved.

A giant size thumb's up Timmy C, those small boats look out of this world, are they mostly photoetch ? As I've said before, the paint work on this 'ship' is absolutely first class.

Thanks! The railings did not take too long (or maybe it did, but it felt pretty quick) - the ones around the anchor storage took the longest because of the severe bends. Maybe two hours or so? Something like that.

Rigging will be stretched sprue.

I don't think I'll be doing anything further with the torpedo net or its booms - I can't find any pictures that clearly show how it would be arranged, and none of the photos seem to show the net itself as being present.

Oh, I also put on the accommodation ladders at the stern right after I took those pictures

You almost done it, Timmy! Accurate and sharp

How long did it take you to make railings along the decks? What material will you use for the rigging? And will you rig torpedo net beams (I am thinking of not doing it on Kurfurst).

Yevgeniy

1.5 weeks later, an update! All railings have been added, masts are glued on, and boat stuff on the superstructure are done. All that're left include rigging (ugh) and accommodation ladders. Maybe the boats at the stern, but since the LR set doesn't include PE parts for them, I'm not sure if I'll add them since they would look a bit different from the ones in the superstructure.

@Alec: Nope - is that some clear liquid used to simulate glass on windows? I have that bottle of Future, which can be used for this function. And I suppose I am a bit spoiled by room

@Yevgeniy: Aye, I haven't put the booms on the masts yet, as they haven't been glued down yet (which will come after I'm done all the boats). I actually didn't get around to gluing the oars until after reading our discussion, so was lucky in not needing to deglue anything. I'm also using regular cement for my PE parts, as they seem to work not bad!

@Cerberus: Nice photos! Haven't seen those before.