The Ship Model Forum

Just so pleased to have helped you to produce an absolutely wonderful model.

Looking forward with great anticipation to the next one!

Cheers, Jabb.

Thank you very much, your interest and nice comments really pushed me forward during the build! Moreover, Jabb, your HMS Dreadnought thread helped me to tackle the rigging worries, big, big thanks for this! :thumbs_up_1:

Your Maryland looks real good. Hull seams can be a issue. I have one with my Colorado kit. Definitely wanting to see how your California turns out.

[quote="Cliffy B"]Drawbacks be darned, that is a fine build!!! Keep at it!! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:[/quote]
Yeah, what Cliffy said. Excellent work, and a fine representation of a workhorse of the Pacific Fleet. Looking forward to seeing what you do with California.

Soo bloody perb!

Cheers, Jabb.

Drawbacks be darned, that is a fine build!!! Keep at it!! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

I thought it would last a couple of days yet before I'll be able to upload this final work-in-progress post. However, the USS Nevada kit from TMW that has been delivered yesterday, contained signal flag decals from Cartograf. I decided not to wait for the intended decals from the Five Star and the result is...here. The displayed NAN-ABLE-ROGER-CHARLIE code was the USS Maryland's callsign. This is my final interpretation of the "Fighting Mary" when leaving the Puget Sound Navy Yard at the end of the August 1945.

I consider the ship itself finished. I am completely aware of all the skill drawbacks (the insufficiently masked hull seam, slightly uneven front polemast etc.) as well as all the factual errors (the Mark 8 FCR instead of the Mark 13, too wide blisters and so on). As for a newbie, my ambitions were just to learn something and establish some basics for the future builds. And the BB-46 was just a victim of this :-)

Well, and as I have a weakness for the Big-5s, the next one will be the USS California in her final configuration. In the meantime I will try to learn something about the model-water making so the Maryland may be placed into some reasonable environment.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/2M6pzaq.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/n5rZBpI.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/PetwmR5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/h6NV2DI.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/bf3ybmm.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/xbcHnaI.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/MlYFnLh.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/niAVJfs.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/mcOJuNF.jpg[/img]

Sure, the Revell's 1/570 Bismarck, Tirpitz, the Tamiya's 1/700 waterline Yamato and the Airfix's 1/600 Hood. All of them ended at the bottom of the aquarium. And then again and again and again. Poor fish, I admit :-)

Did you really sink the ship in your aquarium? Wow! Hahaha lol

What a fine aquarium piece it would make.
,

Thank you, gentlemen.

The loose ends were trimmed, onto the starboard ones now.

It looks great.

Great looking BB! I cannot build them that size anymore. :thumbs_up_1:

Despite I planned to focus on the bow railing today, I decided to tackle my worries from the signal yardarm rigging.

I was still not quite sure how to fix the lower ends. Due to the current state of the build I left my original intention to drill small holes into the flag locker and to install the rigging loops there. Eventually, I decided to apply the presented solution.
- I have made a small bit of a stretched sprue
- Eight threads were attached to it (a simple knot fixed with a bit of a PVA glue) and loose ends were removed
- The sprue was then attached to the inner side of the flag locked (as indicated by the red mark)
- The individual threads were attached to the yardarm.

The loose ends need to be removed yet but I am quite mentally exhausted to do it right now. :-)

The result is quite OK, I think.

[quote="Daytona675R"]They are made of a stretched sprue. They are thinner than the 0.2 mm wire, probably around the 0.1 - 0.15 mm.

My suggestion is - once you'll think you made them thin enough, the opposite is true :-) . Make even thinner and use those. They will become more distinct when painted.[/quote]
I was at a hobby shop that is near my doctor's office. I saw on the shelf spaces for brass wire with .008" and .006" which is less than 0.3mm. Maybe similar to the size you used, but they were out of stock. I am going to do some research if I can find it online or maybe even a smaller thickness.

Two pictures of the current state, photographed under an artificial light.

The jackstaff has been installed and I'll try to finish the remaining railing tomorrow. After this is done, only the foremast rigging remains. And maybe the Kingfisher.

A departure from the Puget Sound Navy Yard is expected in a matter of days :-)

They are made of a stretched sprue. They are thinner than the 0.2 mm wire, probably around the 0.1 - 0.15 mm.

My suggestion is - once you'll think you made them thin enough, the opposite is true :-) . Make even thinner and use those. They will become more distinct when painted.

Looks real good. What size did you use for your whip antennas? I'm not going to make mine for a while, but I might end up using .010" (0.3mm) rod styrene.

The knotted replacement for the molded chain has been installed. I decided not to scrap the molded original this but will do in the next builds, of course. A light weathering of the chain is needed yet. After that, the bow railing is next. The rear one and the Oerlikons battery are already in place.

Thank you for your support, it really pushes me forward!

Despite not a big fan of looking too far away, there is a tiny quiet voice in my head whispering "what ship will you pick up from the stack when the Fighting Mary is finished?" And another one is responding "most probably the USS California (1945)."

We'll see, onto the remaining Oerlikons now.

Great work and recovery!