The Ship Model Forum

Very nicely done!

Just to clarify my above, although the below 'plan' is not to scale nor shows all details, it shows those 'missing' empty 20mm tubs are actually located where Aoshima has the pom-pom director/s, and approximately where those (smaller) director tubs (green dots) should be, that is closer to the mast struts / legs (red dots) than Aoshima has them located on the model (as can be confirmed in historical photo #3 in my previous post).

At little more info on whats what in that general area is supplied by tjstoneman in this other thread;
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10618&start=580#p980322

[quote="drasticplastic"]Is there a decent plastic 1939 version of Exeter? Would like to pair one with Flyhawk Ajax.
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Sorry, cant help you there as I am not a modeller (although we [i]are [/i]just putting the finishing touches to complete 3D fly-around model of - what once was - the wreck of Exeter. :cool_2: )

And on that note, although Richard Durham's model above is [i]exceptionally [/i]well put together, something I just noticed - although it takes [i]nothing [/i]away from his own build, and maybe it has already been mentioned - is the kit (makers) have missed including one of the circular 'tubs' there aft either side port and starboard of the mainmast 'leg'. :whistle:

If you look at the historical post-refit images below you will see there are two 'tubs' on either side (port and starboard) of the mainmast, whereas the model only has one either side. The missing one is positioned between the one that is there now and the pom-poms, fairly tight in against the leg strut of the mainmast as can be seen in image #3 below.

Is there a decent plastic 1939 version of Exeter? Would like to pair one with Flyhawk Ajax.
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[quote="drasticplastic"]A long-overdue question: If I wanted to build a 1939, Battle of Plate, were there many structural changes? Probably less AA to start with.
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[i]Many[/i] changes, only pole masts (not tripods), no HACS, single instead of twin 4", etc, and the list goes on. Much better / easier to start with a 1939 version of the model than try to back-fit a post Plate modification model.

A long-overdue question: If I wanted to build a 1939, Battle of Plate, were there many structural changes? Probably less AA to start with.
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Really nice job on this one!

Wow, exquisitely clean and crisp. That's really nice, Rich.

Agreed, [i]BEAUTIFUL [/i]build!! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Very nice and clean. Well done! :thumbs_up_1:

Yes Martin, please move. Thanks!

She came out great. I can move this over to the completed forum, if you'd like.

To start with, I understand that Exeter likely did not have the 20mm guns in place at time of loss, but I elected not to leave empty holes. The 20mm guns are from the FineMolds Nano Dread series. UNI-Caenis is used for all rigging. For simplicity, I used Tamiya’s Ocean Effects Plate cut to size on a table saw, and then glued to an oak base. The underside of the plate is sprayed with 4 coats of Golden Phthalo Blue and then Tamiya Sky Gray. I gloss coated the top the top of the plate. I always gloss coat my ships to even out the various sheens before I dull coat. The gloss coat also tends to hide a few finishing sins. My gloss coat of choice is Mr. Color UV Cut GX diluted with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. It dries fast and provides a rock-hard coat. If you spay too much, too fast it will lift the paint, so some care is required. I dull coated with Vallejo Satin mixed with a little Vallejo Matte three times over 3 days. The model is attached to the plate using silicon adhesive. This is an easy kit to build and the Aoshima photo etch is easy to work with. From my Navy days, FINEX.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/l3IeLK8.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/KSQwM6t.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/NkGILKD.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/dHLO0uE.jpg[/img]

Lovely build! :thumbs_up_1:

Note though, that if you want to be truely historically faithfull for 1942 then there were no 20mm's in tubs atop either B turret or the aft (X?) turret. If this has been already mentioned, my apologies.

Below pic taken on Exeter at funeral service after Walrus crashed in India Ocean when on way to Singapore late 41 (And both tubs were found empty on her wreck.)

Very sharp, clean build!

Aoshima photo etch radars attached to bronze rods and then the bronze rods were inserted into the mast tubes. 4.5 inch guns have been glued in place, the brass barrels are from Model Master and worked perfectly. I will add the 8 inch turrets once the model has been attached to the display base as I move the model with a finger or thumb on the turret bases and bottom of ship. Flag has been replace with a smaller one, leftover from a previous Flyhawk build.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/wLZCRfN.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/w1MyW59.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/doyEaCQ.jpg[/img]

Hi Drasticplastic, I use a razor blade to cut the rigging, which is under a little tension during the cut.

Really nice, clean work.

How do you clip off the ends of the rigging so neat and close to the yard arms? I always get annoying little nubs sticking up! When I use stretched sprue, a drop of liquid glue will eventually melt through (with a bit of encouragement!) and leave a flush surface.
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Rigged the mast supports before installing the masts, unhappy with the kit plastic parts so next time I will use bronze rod. Used photo etch for the anchor chain, surprisingly easy but tiny! Shown in the third picture is my method for maintaining tension on the UNI-Caenis thread during rigging. Finally, the rigging and flag are done, but I don’t like the look of the flag so I think that I will redo it with a smaller flag. The kit flag decals are not useable so I went to the spares box. I also have a spare flag from a Flyhawk kit. All the photo etch has been added and the end is in sight.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/fWhZSSz.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FPhyroe.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/2OqmkI1.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/vFVQIRM.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/jB2jkoK.jpg[/img]