The Ship Model Forum

Thank you, Eberhard, Devin, Marijn and Pascal, for your nice and encouraging words.

Regards

Carlos

Very nice model :thumbs_up_1:

Very nice weathering indeed! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

That turned out wonderful. I really like the paint and weathering. Nice work!

Nice and somewhat unusal project indeed - and nice rendering :thumbs_up_1:

Thank you, Jim, Pascal

These past days, I have rushed to finish this model for a local contest, so I didn't have the chance to take pics of the progress; anyway, here are some pictures of the somewhat finished Holland.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/KSwqJAT.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ZucEvlG.jpg[/img]

The rest of the weathering was done using Panel Liner and Oilbrushers from AMMO before sealing it with Tamiya matt varnish.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/OEr93Lb.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/Fb24SqK.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/7jZtyQ0.jpg[/img]

A light and shiny propeller doesn't match the overall look of the ship, so I tried and failed to add some weathering using oils and acrylic paint; finally, I added a light misty coat of Tamiya brown to try to emulate worn bronze.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ifisorb.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ntAD9uI.jpg[/img]

I was unable to print the chain included with the model successfully, so I designed my own and printed it; the resin I used was translucent at this scale, so it was darkened slightly with a panel liner wash. I realized later that I had inserted the chain backward through the ring.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/3Mzce9E.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/Mad9qNV.jpg[/img]

The model was mounted on a piece of wood, a leftover from another project; I got another nice piece of wood intended for this model, but didn't have the time to prepare it. I'll do it in the near future, along with a properly installed chain.

I liked this project a lot and plan to make more ship models, so I'll appreciate any comments, critiques, and advice that help me get better at this.

Thank you to all who followed and helped me during this project.

Carlos

Superb! :cool_1:

I've missed this topic since 2024, I can't explain why... :doh_1:

well done--that is looking very good ! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

and the height gauge is very smart--I shall go and raid my daughters lego-boxes :big_grin:
Jim Baumann

Thanks for the advice, Eberhard; I will try that when I get my hands at picture editing software, for the moment the gray background seems to work much better as you said.

I started the weathering process based on ship pictures as a reference; I'm not familiar with the techniques of rust and chipping in ships, so I tried to use common sense to determine where to apply the effects, the area where the chain would cuff against the side of the deck for example.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FZBAYEf.jpg[/img]

Chips and rust made with Vallejo acrylics.

I normally post-process such subjects in Adobe Photoshop LE by lighting up the shadows, dimming the highlights and then increasing the contrast. That flattens the overall contrast between shadows and highlights. It also helps to photograph the object in front of a medium-grey background and use a more diffuse illumination.

Thank you, Devin; hopefully, we can enjoy seeing your build soon.

The painting phase is complete; the ribbing effect looks nice under the satin black, but the overall texture wasn't what I intended in the beginning; the color is a mix of black and a dash of desert yellow from Tamiya.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/1wMiFty.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/rOEcTF0.jpg[/img]

Taking pictures of this high-contrast subject isn't easy for me; I had to read the camera's manual to make the best of it.

That's brilliant. I've used stacked playing cards and Post-It notes before to get a custom height gauge result like that, but never thought of LEGO.

Glad to see you making progress on this. I printed the same model out in 1/96th scale and have all of the parts on my bench at work, but got distracted and haven't touched it. Your posts are inspiring me to maybe glue some things together.

Thanks, Eberhard; I agree the bronze color is a tad light, later weathering maybe will improve the appearance.

A small update, borrowed daughter's Legos to make a jig for marking the flotation line; this step was significant for me because I consider it something archetypal of ship modeling; sorry for being so dramatic, but it's my first ship and I'm very excited.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/kCNCzTY.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/3bX4fw6.jpg[/img]

The propeller looks good, perhaps a tad to bright, but that also depends on the type of the bronze, i.e. the copper to tin ratio.

Thank you, Eberhard , I'll take that into account for the painting and weathering process.

Moved to the painting phase; first, it was primed with Mr.Surfacer, which revealed several spots that needed some correction work.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/azX3YFC.jpg[/img]

Then, a preshading with black and brown before a coat of white for the upper part, all from Tamiya.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/E6aE4Pc.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FZMnNBg.jpg[/img]

The supports were painted gold, and the propeller with a mix of chrome and gold to emulate bronze (or what I thought it was), done with Metal Color over black gloss primer, all from Vallejo.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/gAFBYtF.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/bP06SGT.jpg[/img]

Propellers are usually made of bronze.

Cleats could be also bronze, but on a steel hull may be rather cast or forged steel to avoid localised corrossion. Likewise ring-bolts and such. The mast could be wood to reduce top-weight or steel tubing. Steel parts would be galvanise and painted or left bare.

A long time has passed since my last update; life and work got in the way, but now I'm ready to move forward with this project.

The bulk of the work has gone to modify the exterior of the hull to resemble better what I saw in the reference pictures; this is my try at emulating the ribs and ondulations, even if it's not what I expected. Hopefully it will add some interest to the model.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/5Sa0Cck.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/pny6ImB.jpg[/img]

Here is the model ready for priming, along with the other parts which are not attached yet to facilitate the painting or prevent damage.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/eLOQxIE.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/qhEO13E.jpg[/img]

I will take the opportunity to ask for your kind help; the instructions only indicate to paint the upper part white and the rest in black. I would like to include some weathering and wear to the finish. Do you know what material the propeller could be made of? In the pictures, it appears to be painted or made of a dark material; in the same way, what materials are other parts like the cleats, masts, and rings made of?

Thanks in advance for your help

Carlos

[quote="wefalck"]I don't understand, why do you want to put putty onto the surface to give it some 'texture'?

I can understand that you may want to use putty to correct the wrong doubling strips, but texture?[/quote]

Hi Eberhard, texture may not be the right word. I'm aiming for the wavy surface seen in Jim's picture below.

It's subtle, but I liked the contrast because it is present in the pressure hull but not in the deck, which looks pretty smooth.

[quote="JIM BAUMANN"]Hello Cruiz !

[size=150][b][u][i]My personal biased opinion.... :wave_1[/i][/u][/b][/size]:

' Texture' hmmnnn :scratch:

beware of creating a[i][b] ' modellers model ' [/b][/i] as opposed to something that looks loke the real thing!

[/quote]

I didn't know that planking in ship models is the equivalent debate for aircraft panel lines and rivets :-D . In models, I try to find a balance between realism and visual interest. Let's see what happens when I make my first wooden deck :big_grin: .

As you said, the museum piece is corroded and doesn't represent the ship in service; the wavy surface in your picture is what I'm looking for.

Your idea for the stippled paint could work very well. I was planning to use very diluted putty in a similar way, but I have to test what would work before committing to the model.

By the way, both YouTube links are for a movie trailer. Would you mind sharing the title so I can look it up?

Thank you, gents; I really appreciate your opinions.

Hello Cruiz !

[size=150][b][u][i]My personal biased opinion.... :wave_1[/i][/u][/b][/size]:

' Texture' hmmnnn :scratch:

beware of creating a[i][b] ' modellers model ' [/b][/i] as opposed to something that looks loke the real thing!

example cases ....

1) aircraft models that have pre-shaded panel lines and / overscale protruding rivets...
.... ( this renders the models a " 4-D " model, showing things that are simply not real....

ie [i][b] ' modellers model ' [/b][/i] pretty - but not like the real thing

2) Shipmodels in small scales with over-scale real wood decks with printed planking seams AND butt-joins
where the seams-- if enlarged x 350 or even worse x 700 would be around 2-4 inches in 1:1 scale !

ie [i][b] ' modellers model ' [/b][/i] pretty - but not like the real thing

anyhow with reference to your 1/48 Holland type hull texture


the real thing was constructed of smooth plating- albeit hand ==> 'work-worked'<==

( see large double - clickable image posted below ) an image from the USN collection


[attachment=0]0800161.jpg[/attachment]

Do not be misled by the 'Holland in the submarine museum in Gosport UK
-that spent much of its life on the sea-bed (!! )--hence has a textured hull through extensive corrosion !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hCTXaQ1guE


here is a videolet-- which contains images of an early USN Holland as built

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hCTXaQ1guE

bearing in mind that your Holland submarine is x 48 smaller than the real thing,

that the texture you have observed and seek would be better -- when reduced by 48-- be effectively flat...
but can and would be represented with a stippled brush with enamel paint, and then homogenising this with subsequent paint coats.....

Putty I think would be (possibly) coarse and harder to control and overscale than paint....

Just my � 5.25 worth !!

Best wishes
Jim Baumann :thumbs_up_1: :wave_1:

I don't understand, why do you want to put putty onto the surface to give it some 'texture'?

I can understand that you may want to use putty to correct the wrong doubling strips, but texture?