The Ship Model Forum

Good to see these hints, it�s really frustrating if you don�t get the paint to stick to the model.

Following fellow modeler Sven Sch�nyan�s advice, I used silicone remover from the hardware supermarket, brushed it on the parts and let it sit over night. The (using gloves) I rinsed and brushed the stuff off using warm water and a brush and let the parts dry. Prior to priming, I sprayed the parts with lighter fluid for a final de-greasing. I used primer from the hardware supermarket in a big rattle can, let that cure over night and then tested paint adhesion with kabuki tape (kip 308 tape, like Tamiya, but wider and much cheaper).

And luckily, the paint held.

It seems you really need some powerful stuff to get those silicone residue off the resin!

Frank

Saw a link to this. I used Bleche White to clean the Graf Zeppelin and had no issues painting and priming it once I used the product. Previously, I attempted to use soap and water. This ended in failure.

Timmy C wrote:Not saying that, sorry if I was being confusing - just saying what does work without a doubt. Bleech White might work, but I've not tried it, and it was not brought up as a suggestion in the initial thread when I posed the question: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=154554

(note for future readers: linked thread was in Main Forum and will be purged eventually, so you may not be able to access it. In sum, the issue was getting acrylic paints to stick on Orange Hobby kits. Silicone sealant remover works for sure, acetone maybe if scrubbed, and autobody primer apparently works as well. Mr. Resin Primer does not work here)

Thanks for clarifying, Timmy!

Not saying that, sorry if I was being confusing - just saying what does work without a doubt. Bleech White might work, but I've not tried it, and it was not brought up as a suggestion in the initial thread when I posed the question: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=154554

(note for future readers: linked thread was in Main Forum and will be purged eventually, so you may not be able to access it. In sum, the issue was getting acrylic paints to stick on Orange Hobby kits. Silicone sealant remover works for sure, acetone maybe if scrubbed, and autobody primer apparently works as well. Mr. Resin Primer does not work here)

Timmy C wrote:For those building Orange Hobby kits, the mold release they use is a type of silicone, which can be easily removed by applying a layer of Silicone Sealant Remover (I used DAP's "Silicone-Be-Gone") on the parts for around an hour before washing it off. Many thanks to member Junyo for the suggestion.

Timmy,

Are you saying that the Bleeche White won't work on the Orang Hobby kits?

For those building Orange Hobby kits, the mold release they use is a type of silicone, which can be easily removed by applying a layer of Silicone Sealant Remover (I used DAP's "Silicone-Be-Gone") on the parts for around an hour before washing it off with water and dish soap. Many thanks to member Junyo for the suggestion.

I'd just got so used to the Simple Green that doesn't have any of those side effects that it slipped my mind.

Great stuff, though. Thanks for the tip.

-Devin

Devin wrote: Be sure to use rubber gloves, though. I came down with a case of very dry hands with peeling skin a day after my first use.

-Devin

Alway read the directions first, it does say to avoid prolonged skin contact...

Actually it's just a flat out good idea with any degreasing product to weargloves, some will suck enough fat out of your skin that bleeding will result in just a few minutes. Luckily those are generally industrial degreasing agents.

Just wanted to post that I finally got hold of some Wesley's Bleech White tire cleaner that others have recommended for pre-painting cleaning of resin parts.

The stuff works wonderfully. Cleans it so well that it almost feels as if it gives some "tooth" to the surface.

Be sure to use rubber gloves, though. I came down with a case of very dry hands with peeling skin a day after my first use.

-Devin