The Ship Model Forum

They might quibble with you eating off their surfaces, leaving it in need of washing…everyone survived and thrived by having boundaries. My dad had a dozen experienced pre war Chiefs working for him. Give respect and you will get it back. A very small ship a family, a larger ship, a clan.

I've been working a lot on the bridge, I've got her "cap" to finish, the chimney and some defects on the hull, since yesterday.

I am positioning the anchor to draw its rack, it is launched with a mast along the edge, no hawse here.





I had a Dunn type anchor in stock, common in the Navy, which I had designed for my T2 tanker.

Some bridges had 7 ports, others 8, the Nokomis 7.

I added rivets. This is apparently how it was mounted.

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Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Correct finish of the bridge cap, it serves as a sunshade and prevents rain drops on the windows.  



A not so easy part to reproduce for a 3D rookie. This bridge looks simple, but it's not.

There are some adjustments to be made, but the freehand spirit is there.

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Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

I'm still working on the details of the castle and the bridge.

Some small objects will not be printable in 1:350, at least not separately from the castle. Overflows or air vents, axes, for example, would be best glued/inserted halfway into the castle wall as is done on injected models.

At 1:100 it is largely printable separately.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

The Nokmis' sister ship, the Hoga, is here at the Inland Maritime Museum in North Little Rock, Arkansas. I hope to build one myself one of these days using the hull from the old Lindberg Diesel Tug and scratchbuilding the rest. I'll definitely use your posts as a reference.

Dave

As to the anchor, probably had the slots in the flukes to add to capability to lash down and maneuver in hoisting with painters or straps.

Cheers: Tom

Good idea Dave.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Probably, i have not seen any Book/Navy manuel about this procedure.

I made a real fire axe, it was too schematic. I installed the bunker hoses or to transfer compressed air.

These tugs could bring bunkers to other ships and also compressed air to restart in case of problems.









Hoga.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Nice job on the axes. I "know" (ha!) I saw the info about the anchor slots somewhere recently. When I was aboard these boats we never anchored, even once. If I do find whatever I was looking at I'll let you know.

Cheers: Tom

Not what I was looking for, but the text describes the use of the slots. There were of course anchors with and without. The slotted anchors are I believe called a MK 2. I couldn't say whether or not the wall hanging ornament anchor we had was slotted or not, though handling from a davit would be made safer being able to control the swing with painters. Willie has a photo on his DD build of an anchor being steadied with such a line as it's being weighed.

My dad's 1943 Blue Jacket Manual has fairly extensive discussion on anchoring. My early 60's version doesn't even mention the subject!

Cheers: Tom

Tks Tom, Useful. I will take this into account.

This type of metal boat seems to match the shape of what was used on these tugs, I'll just modify the shape of the stern and bow to match the picture and shorten it.

Thanks to the friend Roland for the plan.





For the typical USN anchor mast, I'll take a cue from Hank's work in starting to model a 1/144 T3 tanker.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=339542



Anchor rack. I need to refine.



An example of how to attach a spare anchor here to a bulkhead. Personal selfie photo, much younger than now, 25 years ago, but digital photography already existed.





I've drawn the fire hose racks, now the hose lances need to be drawn, attached to the bulkhead.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Pascal:

I like your fire hose. The one's I have made aren't quite so nice. My computer trying to follow the position of the laid hose with a sweep of the cross section, gags, maybe too many polys? Maybe a better tack is to start with a solid and "cut" the folds?

My photo mentor, a museum photographer was a very early adopter of digital. I remember out small town newspaper bough one of the first and very expensive DSLR's, a cooperation between Nikon and Kodak. It was a little over 1 MP, but despite the expense it saved them over $50,000 in darkroom and other expenses and they could have an image print ready in a short time. My first was 3 MP and I took some good photos with it. The next one, 6 MP was much improved. Not too much pixel peeping on those early images.

Fun project!

Cheers: Tom

I can send you the STL file if you want Tom.

I had to start with a casio QV10 digital camera in the 1990s.

"in 1995 with the Casio QV-10 which had an LCD screen on the back. The screen was 46 mm (1.8 inch) diagonal.
The QV-10 also had a swivel lens. Pictures were recorded by a 1/5 inch 460x280 pixel CCD and stored in a solid state memory, which could hold up to 96 colour images.



Not too advanced today, I'll try to catch up tomorrow.

I drew the two ladders to access the bridge deck. Then I got interested in the cargo mast which is strong on this little ship. The shape of the horn is not conical as often, it is a simple straight tube, easy to make at the time. To be modified.

The mast also supports the searchlight for the aft manoeuvre, plus some navigation lights on the plan at least, the white aft running light is fixed to the aft rail as often, you can see it on the picture.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Pascal:

Coming along nicely! I think I figured out how to do the fire hoses. One comment, The usual method I saw for racking fire hose was to lay back and forth across the rack rather than circular coil. I certainly cannot vouch that this was the only method used. It did however avoid the twisting usually inherent in coiling. Unfortunately the bulwark hides many tantalizing details of the deckhouse.



These aren't a great example, probably a museum ship. Note that a strap is used rather than a bar. Bars might be more common (maybe). Modern ships have all sorts of clever reels and whatnot to spool hose off quickly. My photo of YT 138 at San Diego (1946) Is different in not having any hose racked on the stbd side so I couldn't tell anything useful from louping (Analogue pixel peeping). She looks a little stripped down, perhaps a post war economy.

When I pixel peeped the (analogue) print I noticed that the YT alongside is Woban! Are you going to print this project? Very interesting!

Cheers: Tom

Ok I see, tks Tom, I will modify.





It is not recommended to bend a fire hose so much, the rubber breaks under the fabric that surrounds it by force, and when you want to use it especially to put out a fire, it explodes at 8 bars of sea water pressure.

It is better to roll them up.





French ship regulations require the hose to be connected, as well as the lance. Ready to be used without loss of time. This is very useful, especially if the spanner to tighten the fittings has magically disappeared, which is often the case.



Yes in two sizes, one for my friend Alain ( Nova73) to 1:350 et one for me to 1:100.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

It can be seen that there is a difference in connection between some countries.

But on ships, an international connection is present on board in a special storage box to be able to connect the ship's fire circuit to that of the shore, wherever the ship is in the world.

"The international shore connection required by regulation 10.2.1.7 shall be stowed on board the ship in such a way as to be easily accessible. A notice in English and French indicating the location of the connection and the maximum supply pressure of the piping system shall be displayed on board the vessel."



https://t-iss.com/2019/01/09/new-produc ... onnection/

WHAT IS AN INTERNATIONAL SHORE CONNECTION?

The goal of the International Shore Connection is to keep a standby hose attachment to get a connection from shore or from otherships for onboard firefighting, in case there is a total failure of pumps onboard.

While using the International Shore Connection, the sea water is supplied at a pre-decided pressure and is connected to the ship’s fire main. You should keep this international shore connection flange at a convenient and accessible location (Bridge or in Fire locker) of a ship so that in case of an emergency it is ready to use.

Make the connection of steel or other suitable material and design it for 1.0 N/mm2 services. Make sure the flange has a flat surface on one side. You must connect the other side to a coupling that you can easily fit to a ships hydrant and / or hose connection.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

Beautiful work on that tug! I really admire your clean hull lines. I've been doing CAD in Rhino for over 5 years now, both for hobby and my day job, but I still find ship hulls really difficult. I guess I need more practice.

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We like our history sanitized and theme-parked and self-congratulatory, not bloody and angry and unflattering. - Jonathan Yardley

Pascal:

Thank you for the International information. There is a lot more International cooperation today than in the 1930's and 40's. For instance we could operate our 18 wheeled airplane to hundreds of countries and there were compatible fueling facilities. Fire at sea or in the air is serious business!

Cheers: Tom

Thanks Devin!

I need to get into Rhino, but haven't had the courage yet.

And I don't have enough time. I have a lot of projects on the way for me and other people.

I've been told that Rhino is more suitable for hull design.

Fusion really isn't meant for that, but I think I've found a method after several months. I had to figure it out by myself, as hull design is not common, no tutorials on Youtube or very simple hulls.

As for this tug, this hull is not my best, because of the poor quality plans I used to start with, since then I have been provided with originals, but too late, I don't have the courage to start again. Everything has to be extremely precise when drawing the sketches.

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ

I'm still working on the cargo mast:

_________________
Pascal

•Battleship Bretagne 3D: https://vu.fr/FvCY
•SS Delphine 3D: https://vu.fr/NeuO
•SS Nomadic 3D: https://vu.fr/tAyL
•USS Nokomis 3D: https://vu.fr/kntC
•USS Pamanset 3D: https://vu.fr/jXGQ