The Ship Model Forum

some one told me its a laser targeting detector for detecting if a laser designator is painting the ship. Or could be some other sort of ECM device.......

_________________
building:
1/72 RC USS LONG BEACH CGN9
1/72 RC USS CALIFORNIA CGN36
1/72 RC USS SAIPAN LHA2
1/72 RC USS JOHN PAUL JONES DDG53
1/72 RC USS SHARK SSN591
1/72 RC USS SEAWOLF SSN21
1/72 RC USS ALBANY CG10

..

FWIW, this kit goes together REALLY easily. I'm building her for an IPMS review and it's nice enough just OOB.

_________________
- Chris

1/700 Saratoga w/Pontos (Needs paint)
1/700 Potato w/Kurama (On hold)
1/700 Murdertorpedoboat Ooi

Thank you!
http://www.fas.org/irp/program/collect/ ... tboard.htm

Very good photos. The last photo shows well the gray color of the paint.

Jörg.

_________________
http://www.modellmarine.de

Current Project:

French Navy Antiaircraft Cruiser Colbert C 611,1964, 1/700

I haven't checked my references, but the Burke bridges I've been on are like every other ship bridge, white overheads with a few red ones for night/action stations. You used to get green glow from radar screens, but with modern computer flat screens, I don't know if that's still true. There are a lot of lighted buttons and screens, so you will always get a variety of dim colors reflecting on surfaces.

Hangars are the same.

If you're talking paint, a lot of bridges are painted in a pale green or pale blue. Im not sure if all Burkes are blue, but most ive seen are. In photos it looks like light grey. Modern building methods and equipment block most of the internal structure with black or silver consoles and cabinets.

Hangars are white.

Ceilings are flat black and floors are usually a dark blue tile, but again, this varies.

HTH's!!

_________________
Darren (Admiral Hawk)
In the not so tropical climate of the Great White North.

More pics:

Thank you very much for the photos!

(and more would be welcome!)

_________________

@PetrolGator The fit of the parts is very good. Filling and sanding is to make only a little. This model is relatively easy to build.

Jörg

_________________
http://www.modellmarine.de

Current Project:

French Navy Antiaircraft Cruiser Colbert C 611,1964, 1/700

Hi Darren

Thanks for your reply re LED colours for my upcoming 1/350 Burke class. The reason that I have ordered several different LED colours is I have seen a model or two of the Wasp Class on this site with Green LEDs used for forward / Rear Bridge areas. Think I have also seen Green or a pale White used in the area where the landing craft enter, and a possible Orange used on the lower hanger deck again I am referencing a Wasp Class kit.
Just cant seem to find many "night" photos on the net to use as reference.

Thanks again for your assistance.

Best regards
Peter H
Sydney, AU

The bridge lights of the Bataan looked green from the flight deck. The hanger bay lights are white, and the well deck lights are green because it doesn't mess with the night vision goggles.
The hanger bay also has red lights.

_________________
God grant me the courage not to give up what I think is right even though I think it is hopeless.
~ Chester W. Nimitz ~
My Builds ~ http://ussnorthcaroilna.shutterfly.com/

Hi Mark

I have just gone onto your web site to briefly look at some of your builds including your USS Bataan, the LEDs are what I have seen before as you previously explained. Excellent work mate.

Another question if I may?

As I have two (2) 1/350 Trumpeter Arleigh's to build, 1 being the Momsen, I would like to have the "Remote Minehunter" area open and lit. What colour LED would you think or know would be used in this area? Yellow / Orange / Green or pale White??

Again, thanks in advance for your assistance.

Peter Hoskins
Sydney, AU

First off, thanks for checking out my site.

I found this picture a while ago

If you look at the hanger bay ceiling you'll notice two fluorescent light fixtures side by side.
One of the lights is white, and the one next to it has a red cover.
In this picture

you can see on the right side of the picture about 4 feet or so down mounted to the bulkhead is an incandescent/Mercury vapor type fixture, and below that is a RED light fixture.
I've found that a "Warm White 2900K" LED looks most like an incandescent light, where as the "White 6500K" LED looks close to a fluorescent bulb.
So to make a long post longer, to light the Minehunter bay, I'd use the smallest "Warm White 2900K" LED I could get, and I'd go with "White 6500K" LEDs in the hanger bay ceiling.
I'd love to do a ship running red, but my problem with red is even dimmed as far as it can go it's overpowering.
I did a few tests, and even tried to paint the red led with Tamiya smoke red. There is just to much light.
That's why I chose to do my hanger bay in 6500K white. This simulates fluorescent light well, and can dim without turning yellow nicely. I like the 2900K for simulating incandescent because, even though it's a white light it still shows a bit of yellow.

This is just my opinion, purely based on the pictures I found while doing research on my Momsen.
Not sure if this will help or not, but it's the best I could find on the subject.
Oh Yes, I found out the hard way that LEDs will show threw model plastic, so if you don't want your light to bleed into places it shouldn't do this


Thanks
Mark

_________________
God grant me the courage not to give up what I think is right even though I think it is hopeless.
~ Chester W. Nimitz ~
My Builds ~ http://ussnorthcaroilna.shutterfly.com/

Hi Mark
Thank you for your reply and the pictures as reference. Very handy. As I have never served I can only ask on boards such as this so that I try and do justice to the particular ship I am building.

I also came across 2 pics that I had saved recently (no idea what site I got them from now) but the first shows what I believe is a daytime photo from inside a Burke Mine hunter area and it has white Fluros on. The second I am not sure of, I "think" is from inside LCS 1 with a RHIB on a rail/s and the lighting is all Red.

I also had thought about colour bleed on the model, appreciate your pic to show how to stop this from happening, something I haven't tested yet but will have to work on when I do start my first Burke.
Thanks again for your assistance, have added your site under my "US Navy favourites"

Best regards

Peter Hoskins
Sydney, AU

Hi again Mark

Sorry, I forgot to mention, after your previous post I went thru my copy of StillMotions "Arleigh Burkes DDG 3" I found a similar day photo where a hanger is lit by 4 large "white" lights (on), and next to them are 4 large "red" lights (off). I had never noticed this before your post!

My understanding / guess is the white is for normal operations, and red is used if the Ship may be in a non friendly area?

Am happy to e-mail you the pic if you want.
Thanks again mate

Regards
Peter H
Sydney

You are absolutely right, I don't have a good picture of the Minehunter bay, but I'll bet if there's florescent lights in the overhead then that light fixture on the right is to light up the water area for recovery operations. I didn't even think about bringing the Minehunter back into the ship at night. I'll bet that's what it's for. Now I'm thinking of a new diorama with the recovery boom extended, the lights in the bay on, and people looking over the side at the Minehunter. You could use fiber-optics for the lights that shine into the water. With where they are, I'll bet it wouldn't be that hard to get away with it.

Just an idea. I have lots of them, but my hands usually tell my brain "No."

_________________
God grant me the courage not to give up what I think is right even though I think it is hopeless.
~ Chester W. Nimitz ~
My Builds ~ http://ussnorthcaroilna.shutterfly.com/

Hi All

Just thought I would mention, but may already be old news, looks like Lion Roar are bringing out a Burke I / II Upgrade set in 1/350.

I have the Yankee Modelworks 3004 Set that I am planning to use on my Trumpeter 1/350 USS Lassen & make as the USS Churchill.

The new Lion Roar if suitable may go onto my USS Momsen kit. The current pics on their web site look to be for flight 1 ships. Hopefully, I assume it has all the extras for the Flt II / IIA?

I have no association / dealings with Lion Roar etc.

Thanks & regards

Peter H
Sydney, AU

Hi again Mark / All

Just wanted to let you know I hastily tacked and dry fitted the forward area and Bridge together on my 1/350 Trumpeter Lassen (Churchill) to test a single LED light and just what you previously mentioned did happen, there was "orange glow" coming out of every tiny crack and also where the plastic is thin like the location areas for the SPY-1 to be placed.

Thinking of painting the inside of the Bridge "Black" or building a small plastic square around the LED to reduce its affect.
Also, the web site and paperwork that came with the LED's mentioned that giving a light coat of Acrylic paint can reduce by up to 50% so I may also try that. Guess its all trial & error. Thanks again for your heads up on some of the LED tricks.

Best regards
Peter H
Sydney, AU

I painted my LEDs with Tamiya smoke paint. It works like a charm, but it doesn't help with the cracks. The foil tape I got was about $3.00 US, and it's going to last me forever.
I thought that I could paint the back of one LED red to give that red light appearance to the door that I cut open, and you can't see it at all.

_________________
God grant me the courage not to give up what I think is right even though I think it is hopeless.
~ Chester W. Nimitz ~
My Builds ~ http://ussnorthcaroilna.shutterfly.com/

This PE set of Lion Roar in Preorder here:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10226653

_________________
Make your influence positive!

"Oh Lord thy sea is so great and my boat is so small."
Breton Fisherman's Prayer