The Ship Model Forum

I think he doesn't meant the presence or absence or accuracy of details, but rather, the sharpness of the details. Some of the moldings do appear to have rather "rounded" edges and lack the squared sharpness that might be expected.

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Apologies was posting under akizuki thread then realised didn't logon, so logon (which brings to index page) then tried to cut/paste original post but mistakenly clicked on the Yukikaze thread hehe.

By sharpness, it is not evident without comparison. If you take any existing Tamiya mold from the 70-80s, such as KGV, Hood etc, then compare the edges with the current Fujimi offering, you'll see what it means to have 'sharp' molding, amazing really (though cannot guess when the last batch was manufactured)

Or...if you compare Tamiya's Yamato side by side with Fujimi's which has almost identical parts breakdown.

Or compare Fujimi's Myoko class with Hasegawas. Some would say Hasegawa has less detail and Fujimi is slightly more accurate, but what Fujimi's has in detail is very soft. Though Myoko pre-dates what I considered Fujimi's 'break out' kit which was the Kongo class. Still if I'm to build a Myoko now with all the aftermarkets available, I'd prefer Hasegawa + super detail set rather than Fujimi + super detail set, because lack of detail can be added, but soft detail = remove then add

Of course, comparing Fujimi with most of Dragon/Trumpeter you get a better model, when parts don't even align tehehe.

The Myoko and Yamato class is not the new molds Fujimi is producing the last 2 years.Both of them are more than 8 years old, especialy Yamato class.
So please go on, compare the new Fujimi's Ise with the Hasegawa's Ise or the new Tone class Heavy Cruiser's with the Aoshima's Tone class.What about Taiho, and Tamiya's Shokaku compared to Fujimi's one.Or do you want to compare for example Fujimi's Nagato with Dragon's Pennsylvania or Trumpeter's Renown ?
Fujim's (in 1/700 at least) last 2 years offerings have no competion.

Edit:Fujimi's Myoko class is more accurate than Hasegawas.

So is there any way to fix this problem and add the anti-skid deck and linoleum strips for the boat and is it a hard thing to do?

To Fujimi's Yukikaze ?Yes is hard to fix it, reason ? There is no problem/absence of antiskid and linoleum strips in Fujimi's 1/700 Yukikaze.
Happy modeling

so the anti-skid and linoleum strips in Fujimi's 1/700 Yukikaze are there ? i looked at the contents and Assembly guide on the web page of http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10125125 and i didn't see them. but if they are then that is awesome new !!!!!

No, he means that they weren't there on the real thing, and so it is accurate that they are absent in the kit.

*Wrong info edited out - see Dan's post below*

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Oh, boy.

Ok, main deck linoleum remains on all IJN ships throughout the war, stripped only from interior spaces. See Yukikaze postwar photo below, either side of mount #1 siting. And, yes, the Fujimi kit has the tie-downs.

Same photo vs new Fujimi kit, which incorrectly has molded the turret deck bases. Not that you'll see it with the turret on top.

I have not built it but I have it, obviously. I agree that the detail molding is not always sharp. In fact, it's inconsistent. Compare the excellent aft deck house assembly vs the bridge assembly. It's as if from two different kits.

The hull is very good, late war version with some sealed scuttles and degaussing cable. Hate how they've over-engineered the prow and made it two separate pieces to be attached to the bow. New Aoshima kit has finer bow. OTOH, I like the way the Fujimi bridge compass deck level has been provided for.

I'm ambivalent about it. You could make the argument that it's over-engineered but I think it's a reflection of maximizing slide molds. As I've stated before, Fujimi is attempting to combine the PitRoad penchant for details with the Aoshima penchant for correct scale. Mostly succeeding, sometimes not, all within the same kit. I think they do a better job with their larger kits.

I really need to build one OOB. You do get two kits in the box. Oh, and the Model Art Feb. 2011 issue happens to have an article featuring the original Aoshima, PitRoad, new Aoshima and Fujimi 1/700 Kagero kits. Not an outright comparison though.

ah well thats good to hear that the linoleum strips are there which means I shall be buying them but do you know if the anti-skid deck is there?

I have model art feb (picked it up whilst in Japan about a month ago keke) but do not have the new yukikaze kit.

Compare with the picture of Shiranui in '42 sept from Diamond's Japanese Naval Warships Photo Album Destroyers, which is about the clearest and biggest picture of a Kagero I have ever seen (2 x A4 landscape, view from above in dry dock being repaired), I have the following comment, assuming Shiranui is representative of the Kagero class and Yukikaze is not special in the deck arrangement:

1. new fujimi tooling does provide linoleum and anti-skid on the deck, largely similar to pit-road actually.
2. only difference I see is the port side anti-skid plates extend all the way aft to the base of the 2nd turret base. The kit's anti-skid along terminates just preceding the 2nd turret like the pit-road kit.
3. as for the starboard side I cannot see clearly from the photo (through deck outside of the torpedo rail is anti-skid)

Last edit:
model art review mentioned the degaussing cable on the fujimi kit is that of late war yukikaze, and differs from early war kageros. This combined with the break down of the main superstructure and some other deck housing parts (both late war), means the fujimi kit is a good representation for late war yukikaze but may not be appropriate for sister ships as the kit advertises (2 included).

(note to moderator: this, too, should be moved later to the CASF Kagero thread)

The photos of damaged Shiranui in drydock are excellent close-ups and a great guide to what any Type A DD, especially a Kagero type, looks like up close. Sadly, I don't have any of them scanned to post.

All Type A DDs (Hatsuharu type thru to Yugumo type) have an assymetrical deck layout aft around the deckhouse whereas linoleum is laid on the starboard side and treaded metal deck on the port side, so the kit is correct.

I have to say that the treading on the Fujimi kit is the finest yet seen on a IJN DD. I've been pondering this further. I want to like the kit; most of the individual pieces appear great, esp the hull, yet I'm not certain that the sum is greater than the individual parts, at least judging from the manufacturer's build-up photos.

As nice as the new Aoshima kit is shapewise, there are no portholes, which is a pain to replicate, and bulkhead details are lacking. If you are building a late war Kagero, then perhaps the Fujimi kit is a better starting point.

Potchip's citation of the Model Art point about degaussing cable differences is correct. IIRC, some ships have a different set-up around the stern, a few at the forecastle/main deck break.

There is an article in the very first Model Graphix Ship Modeling Navy Yard Special on the Kagero class authored by Motoyuki Iwashige with diagrams on the differences. It's a subtle thing, though.

I've put in about 14 hours of work on my model, the Hasegawa 1/350 IJN Isokaze (I opted to build the later model). Included on the logged work hours are the time I've spent working on the LiorRoar PE parts for just one the torpedo turrets. Boy, are those things tiny! I had no idea! I'm not complaining though, I'm actually having fun. I am taking work-in-progress photos but there is nothing out of the ordinary to share or nothing you have not yet seen. Im my opinion, you guys have way better SBS photos. Anyway, I do have a request, does anybody have a better photo reference of the propeller guards? The ones on the kit are molded solid in plastic. I've been looking at other finished photos of Yukikazes and Kageros but I can't seem to find a good on. I'm really surprised that these parts weren't included in the PE at all. Any help would be great! Thanks!

Attached is one of the previously mentioned photos of Shiranui in drydock after losing her entire bow to a torpedo. If you look to the right, down under the paravanes, you'll see the propeller guard. It's a very simple strut affair.

Note that the rear turrets do not carry stiffeners, only handrails along the sides

Thanks very much Dan! That is a great photo! I will try to replicate the propeller guard from wires.

Hi, guys I have a question about the bridges of Yukikaze, Isokaze and Hamakaze. On some of the models seen of these ships in the ten-go state, there are what seems to be metal plating attached under the windows on the bridge, yet in post-war pics of Yukikaze there are no metal plateing attached under the windows and it doesn't look to me of any evedenc of anything ever being attached there, dose anyone know anything about this? Thank you

Assuming you are talking about the plates seen below on sister Isokaze's bridge in Oct.'44 (ignore the red arrow - points to passive radar detector), then know that the IJN attached metal plating for extra splinter protection to the bridge of most of its DDs. This practice dates from their time in China in the late 1930s, though it may not have been uniformly applied at the outset of WWII.

Clearly no need for it postwar - harder to maintain.

Yes that is what i was talking about Thank so much Dan K i had know idea that those were added in 44!!!

Some had them added earlier

Hello---while waiting for my Arizona model to come in I started
work again on my Aoshima 1/700 Yukikaze. It's a really well
detailed kit for 1/700, I have a few sub assemblies built and the
hull and deck done. I painted the linoleum areas with Tamiya
Linoleum brown acrylic. I have the Toms PE set but will mainly
be using it for the rails. I also am impressed in that it is a full
hull, don't have to attempt to "build" water.---John