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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2023 12:34 pm 
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Location: Nr Southampton England
If you need to make the sprayhood like the one in the last shown image

you can do so by making a wire frame and creating the ' hollowed out' canvas using white glue

these are a couple of my 1/350 boats I made back in 2010 for my 1899 Bouvet project

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... index.html

My camera has improved in the meantime! :big_grin: :wave_1:

Image

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 4:47 pm 
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Location: Vigo, Spain
Hi there Hank, Meister Baumann, Tom, Marijin and all,

Thanks very much for your feedback and your interest, really much appreciated.

BB62vet wrote:
I noticed that you have added frames on either side of the inside of the hull - this would be consistent with the boat as shown in your photo #1015, but only partially exposed.
My guess is that the framing was covered by the 1950s, but that's only a guess.

Honestly, I was not able to clarify this subject. It was imposible to find any clear picture of the inside of the inboard details of the whale boat model I was reproducing, and as only source I followed the model of this whale boat:
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...along with the sketches of Al Ross in his AOTS The Sullivans --very clear things, on the other hand-- and both seemed to describe the same thing, i.e., frames. Your reasoning sounds consistent, and you are probably right. Too bad, because at this stage of the construction to go back to the beginning, with the stern complete, and everything that should be deleted would be no good. I know myself and my fat fingers too well at this stage of my life.

On the other hand, the second picture that you uploaded to the thread has allowed to me to realize that I had omitted the hooks and reinforcements that were used to lift the whaler out of the drink. I have added the elements accordingly, and also some other things that I had not done yet:

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With this, there is more detail, and again at no cost in work or time.
Fliger747 wrote:
You might want to check the inclination of the shaft as it is probably not parallel to the keel bottom but inclined as often were the motor assemblies.

Yes, I have noticed that as well. This piece moved during the process, only a fraction of mm., but it did, and was enough to be counted as a mistake. It was the first piece that I set in place in its moment, and it moved probably because of the slit in the hull that it had in the area for the corresponding Revell piece, and that I did not consider necessary to fill. Actually, the skeg broke during the last part of the process, and I had to make a new one, and it was not easy, as it has a curious shape, and is so tiny. As a solution, I will attach the screw with some angle, and as this section of the boat will be inboard-orientated, and behind the davit, I think this obvious mistake will be not noticed.
Fliger747 wrote:
I used to run a 26' MWB at one time, as I believe did Hank, but I never paid much attention to the details out of water (half century ago)

My case too, Tom. We had one of these thing on board our ship (39 years ago !!!!), and as it was always hanging from her davits and was rarely used, I had little opportunity (well, and interest) to get inside.
Fliger747 wrote:
Just curious as to how you intend to suspend this boat from the davits.

I don´t know myself either, but most surely I will use the plates that are already in place (made with melted plastic, marked with blue arrows), with a sketch of lifting eye, and a block attached to it, to be itself attached to the second block in the top of the davit with sections of stretched sprue. I will try this, but maybe will I have to simplify and omit the lifting eye, as these pieces are very tiny.

Meister Baumann, the Fletchers in the Spanish Navy had no canopy, so it will not be necessary, but your tip is excellent. I have been considering your method for a long time to make the blast bags, using scraps of stretched sprue to make the wrinks covered with white glue. I think it can work wonderfully, and guarantee that they are not similar to each other.

So that´s all for now. Thanks again for your interest, and very best regards from this side of the seas,

Willie.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 6:07 pm 
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Willie,
Well, I certainly don't intend to make any more work for either of us, but this is one of the problems with modeling items that tend to not have a great deal of reference photos or plans of minute details to rely upon. I think your boat will do fine as it currently exists - your detailing has certainly improved what you began with from the basic kit part.

Hank

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HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2024 3:04 pm 
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Location: Vigo, Spain
Hi all modellers once again.

It has been quite a long time without any update in this thread. I have to say that 1/1 scale life has once more seriously interfered with advanced modelling. Other than this I have been stack with the main mast, virtually the only major element that has to be completed yet.

I have devoted lots of time to the two radar aerials, with less-than-promising results as for now, and at this 1/144 scale, PE seems to not even exist. Too bad.

The second thing to be solved is the wiring up the mast. It is complicated, to say the least. Lots of time were devoted to this subject too, and it was not until a short time ago that I found what I think that can be if the solution, at least something that can be tested.


Before anything else, I added some elements to the hull, the water canals all along the hull, small things that are very easy to build and that add realism when put together. I used for this 0.5x0.4 mm. Evergreen strip. I tried 0.25x0.5 mm. at first, but it was too thing, it could break easily, and this monster hull will require lots of handling yet.
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The stern had the very same solution :
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And the same all along the hull. I found a couple of interesting details that I gladly added too:
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In the last picture it is easy to see the bumps that I made in the hull to give it some uniformity with the oil canning for and aft.

After this, the mast. This pic is an example of what has to be done. Lots of small elements, interfering with each other everywhere, what means that every step has to be carefully calculated:

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I decided that the elements have to be built from the inside to the outside, leaving the bigger elements as the last step, and always leaving some room for the secondary wiring lines. The first thing were then the brackets that seem to support the brunt of the weight of the wiring lines. In my files, I could find 14 of these brackets, most of the placed at uneven distances:
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This is USS Isherwood, but after everything I have reseached, this mast is representative of any square-bridged Fletcher. From the flying bridge downwards there are some more. I made four, the last one being necessary to secure the lower section of the wiring, but only three of the will be visible in my model, as the rest of them would be covered by the deck of the commodore cabin the this ship displayed.
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As it can be observed, the brackets are made fast on the sides. I made the circles with 4.0 mm Evergreen tubing, filed and sanded inside and outside to acceptable calibers, cut in the rear to allow the correct placing, and completed with scraps of stretched sprue. In this case, I had to trade reality against realism, beause I was not able to handle smaller pieces. This is the main mast as for now :
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Attachment:
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I know they are a bit too thick, but I think this problem can be covered to some extent by not giving them any kind of shading when they are painted, and only some dry-brush lights, so that they are apparent but without highlighting their true thickness.

I hope you like the process, and very best regards from this side,

Willie.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2024 9:54 am 
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Great to see you back at the bench Willie! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2024 4:55 pm 
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Hi there Marijn and all,
marijn van gils wrote:
Great to see you back at the bench Willie! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:


Thanks very much for your welcome. Actually I was never away from the bench --I simply changed the corner. When the work on the radars and the wiring became too frustrating and unsucessful, I devoted some time and research to German U-Boote artillery. German U-Boote in WWII are my subject since I was a teenager, and I have already in store three Revell submarines in 1/72 scale, a VII-C (for U201, Adalbert Schnee), an early IX-C (for U66, Richard Zapp) and a late war IX-C with extended Wintergarten (for U516, Hans-Rutgen Tillessen).

For these monsters (in 1/72 they are huge !!!) I have already made all the artillery but the Flak Vierling for the late war IX-C, what means two 105 mm, one 88 mm., two single and two double 20 mm. mounts and two 37 mm. single mounts. This time I had some more success than with the Jorge Juan main mast.

The 20 mm. Flaks needed lots of scratch build, but I think they came out quite nicely :

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As for the 37 mm. Flaks, only one was necessary, but this mount has been my favourite naval gun ever, since I discovered this picture in the summer 1980, virtually a lifetime ago:
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The caption said briefly "U505, the first German submarine to surrender to the US Navy". It was only much time later that I discovered that this is not U505 at all, but U172, and that she was not surrendering, but just the opposite: she was just coming back to Lorient from the Western Atlantic, with car tires (hanging on the 105 mm. gun, before the bridge) and the flag of US merchant SS Santa Rita as trophies. What a difference.

Anyhow, and for whatever reason, this gun pointing up made me daydream for years and decades. As I had some spares from shared sprues in both IX-C´s, I was able to make two separate models of this Flak gun, one in travelling position and the second one pointing upwards with maximum elevation:

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All the rest of the guns are also finished and ready to paint. Sadly my battery charger is dead, and I cannot make any pictures for the moment.

But these U-Boote will have to wait until Jorge Juan is finished. Otherwise I will have too many things to handle at the same time.

So sorry to include this off-topic in the thread, but it has also been a pleasure to share this work with you all.

Very best regards from this corner of the North Atlantic,

Willie.

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Amen dico tibi, hodie mecum eris in paradiso (Lk 23,43).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2024 6:21 pm 
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Willie,

I just sent you a PM re. our email exchanges (or lack thereof!!). Your work on the mast/RADARs and the small deck guns looks 1st Class - I hope to get back to lil STOD soon enough - I'm about at the same area (main mast) as you seem to be. Glad to see new posts from you and your progress!!

Hank

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HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69

Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors
Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2024 3:42 pm 
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Hi there all modellers again,

The next step, the torpedo crane, was again a passtime in between I decide on the main mast.
This torpedo crane was quite distinctive in the Fletcher´s silhouette:


Attachment:
(1037).jpg
(1037).jpg [ 56.16 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


It was present in Jorge Juan as well, as it can be seen in this otherwise blurry picture :

Attachment:
(1038).jpg
(1038).jpg [ 39.16 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


After the many pictures I have found of this crane, I could see that there are many different models, or variations, of the same elements, but this one seems to be the most universal, but again with the handle at front or at the side of the main support:

Attachment:
(1039).jpg
(1039).jpg [ 55.19 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


On the other hand, the head of the crane seems to follow the same pattern in all cases, with the same elements in the same position:

Attachment:
(1040).JPG
(1040).JPG [ 57.86 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


The kit offers a crane, but very crude for this scale.

Attachment:
(1041).JPG
(1041).JPG [ 238.47 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


The measures are basically right, and I considered recovering the cross, but I decided that it would take as much time --if not more-- as building a new one, that was what what I eventually made. the base is a piece of 2.5 mm. Evergreen rod, with all the rest of the elements built accordingly to this size

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Attachment:
(1043).JPG
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Attachment:
(1044).JPG
(1044).JPG [ 223.36 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


When set in place, the mount is quite convincing, and it will be more when it is painted, dry-brushed and finished with a piece of chain hanging. I could not find a clear picture of the base on deck, so I imagined one, and made the body of the crane longer than necessary so that it can be hoisted if desired

Attachment:
(1045).JPG
(1045).JPG [ 221.66 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]

Attachment:
(1046).JPG
(1046).JPG [ 223.64 KiB | Viewed 146 times ]


I hope you like it, and very best regards from this side,

Willie.

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Amen dico tibi, hodie mecum eris in paradiso (Lk 23,43).


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2024 1:39 pm 
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Beautifully made....

the sharpness of your styrene work is inspirationa l!

Jim B :wave_1:

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....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com


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