The Ship Model Forum

Allright, the forward superstructure is completed now with all the stuff in place (except the whip antennas). Please, if you have an idea what should be corrected etc., constructive criticism is more than welcome. It is still not glued together. After it is, I won't be able to change virtually anything.

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- David

Thanks for sharing the info. The superstructure looks great. I can't see any issues with it.

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Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

A preview of the rear superstructure with its Mark 8 FCR, a backup SP air search radar, two Oerlikon twins, two 36-in searchllights (rather ugly, I know, I should replaced them with some aftermarket ones) and four Mark 51 gun directors.

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- David

I have decided to replace the original plastic cable reels for photoetched ones (Eduard). The center pieces are cut from plastic 16in guns.

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- David

I dont know if I missed it in an earlier post or not, but what color are you using? Or are you mixing your own. That is the best shade I have seen for measure 21!

Yes, I've mentioned it before but no problem.:

20-B Deck Blue (1942 Rev.): Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats #US 10 (this one).

5-N Navy Blue: I wanted to try the SHC as well but the dealer didn't have it in stock when I needed it. Hence I decided to mix my own using Tamiya Acrylics and the Snyder & Short's paint chip for reference. After some experimentation I ended with a formula XF8 Flat Blue (2 portions) + XF50 Field Blue (2 portions) + XF20 Medium Grey (1 portion). For a shlightly (almost unnoticeably) lighter tone you can swap the XF20 for the XF2 (Flat White).

Edit: A picture of both of the mixed 5-N variants included.



Some notes:
- don't even try to mix the 20-B or 5-N using the official Tamiya's formulas mentioned in their instructions. A waste of time.
- the AK Interactive's paints 5-N is unfortunately way out of matching the reference as well. The 20-B is faring a little better (but not ideal as well). See pictures below.

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- David

An attempt to slightly emphasize the weathering on the superstructure etc. Still holding back, though, don't want it looking way too intensive.

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- David

She looks great!

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Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Don't normally bother with 700th - too small for me!

I am captivated by this build, keep it coming!

Cheers, Jabb

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HMS Hood, the big one!

I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure.

Thank you, gentlemen. It finally starts to resemble a ship . The last pictures are terrible (grainy and dark as made in poor light conditions), hence a new attempt has been made. However, as I am no photographer, I don't know whether the white color is a good or bad choice for the background etc. The dark colors of the Measure 21 itself are a little piece of hell - either nothing can be seen or the shades are way out of real look. Never mind...

A preview of the secondary battery in place included.

Edit: Eh...English. Or whatever it is.

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- David

Looks very nice! And just saying, don't be too serious with the build, or you might one day give up because of the strain! But also not be too relaxed, otherwise your model will be a mess (like some of my old ones!) Anyway she is coming out real nice as said! The camo looks very dark, though! Should be a very effective scheme at night? By the way, the railings look very fine! Even finer than the 1/350 Eduard Tirpitz set I have in relation to their own scales!


Aop

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On the way:
--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!

Thank you, Aop. Fortunately, all modules / parts / whatever are completed and it's just about putting it all together. The only menace, that has not been touched yet, is rigging.

About the camouflage - the Measure 21 (Navy Blue System) scheme was supposedly developed to provide "Lowest visibility to aerial observers day and night in all types of weather. Low visibility under searchlight. High visibility to all surface observers in all types of weather. Considerable course deception to surface observers in all types of weather." (source: SHIPS-2, Revision 6/42). The intention is basically to let the ship merge with the sea surface (that appears quite dark when looking from above).

All USN prewar battleships (from Arkansas to West Virginia) were painted using that scheme in 1945. I think it was because of the primary role they had - heavy fire support units during landing operations. And as such, the primary danger they faced (and were expected to face) were kamikaze attacks. All other menaces were considered secondary, including fire from shore batteries.

USS Texas bears this camouflage scheme since then...so one can confirm that the scheme is really dark.

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- David

I've been following this for a while. Excellent work! I do love the Ms 21 camouflage, as monolithic as it can be. These vessels just looked mean. Work appears really clean and the weathering is in-scale. Don't be afraid of rigging, just take it slowly. What's your material of choice?

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- Chris

1/700 Saratoga w/Pontos (Needs paint)
1/700 Potato w/Kurama (On hold)
1/700 Murdertorpedoboat Ooi

Thank you very much, Chris.

I have not done much research, regarding the rigging, yet. But from what I've seen so far, I am inclining myself to the UNI-Caenis 20den thread. The biggest challenge I see is attaching the lower ends of ropes going up and down between "flag lockers" and signal yardarms.

I have discussed this with a colleague on a Czech model forum and I see three options:

1) cut the flag locker off, drill several holes to the platform side and pull the threads through. Finally, glue the locker back. But I am quite afraid of cutting as I already see all the railing, stairs. etc. flying all around...
2) drill several small holes into a top side of the locker and fix several NorthStar rigging loops there.
3) drill two small holes into a top side (or maybe inner side) of the locker and fix a tiny staple made from a thin wire there.

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- David

Try option 2

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=162474

Cheers, Jabb

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HMS Hood, the big one!

I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure.

very nice build. Too bad nobody makes these in styrene in 1/350. I'm working on the Colorado myself. First real foray into photo-etch. I'm not even going to attempt rigging.

Jabb, I found the rigging loops option just thanks to your post. May I ask you..the drill you are showing there is the mentioned 0.3 mm? I don't own anything like this, but it seems as a reasonable investment for all planned future builds.

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- David

Absolutely!

See these -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-Mirco-0-1-1-4mm-Carbide-Pro-PCB-Print-Circuit-Board-CNC-Drill-Bit-Tool-New-/381393111458?var=&hash=item58cccd09a2:m:mXd6if9zWqajmevsu_pN5Dg

and order a couple, you WILL break them despite being very careful!

Cracking build, loving every post on this one!

Cheers, Jabb

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HMS Hood, the big one!

I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure.

Thank you. Please, share your progress with us as well.

Honestly, despite the 1/350s are impressive, their size and subsequent impact on the available storage/display space make them almost prohibitive for myself. I found out the 1/700s can still offer a huge amount of detail with all the available aftermarket enhancements. Not even talking about prices. And now, when Trumpeter re-released the Big 5s, one can build a pretty impresive line spanning from the Pennsylvania to the Iowa (which is a part of my ultimate lifetime modeling goal ). The only thing bothering me is an absence of Nevadas and New Mexicos. Hopefully, someone will release them one day...

Regarding the rigging - as a complete noob, several months ago I was not even considering PE. But things are going and going and ultimately you are trying to achieve as much detail and precision as possible (given the skill level, of course). So why not? One has to learn somehow...

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- David

Great, thanks for the advice, I will order a couple of these.

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- David