Quote:
got any paint tips in case I would do it?
A wash is incredibly easy to apply. I use Tamiya paints as well.
The deck gets sprayed with your choice of "wood" colored paint. Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan XF-78 is a good choice.
Once dry, seal it with a spray coat of clear acrylic gloss. I use Future, or whatever they call it these days, thinned with about 25% alcohol, and sprayed on.
You'll need to purchase a tin or tube of an oil based wash, preferably burnt umber in color. But, you could experiment with different colors. Some examples:
https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... r+oil+washI take a small piece of paper towel, dip it into some turpentine, then dab it with the burnt umber from the tin/tube. Rub it over the deck, covering all the spaces and try to fill the plank seams. I don't try to put it on too heavily, but it almost doesn't matter.
I use to continue spreading the burnt umber around with the paper towel, before the turpentine dried, in order to thin the paint layer and control it's appearance. Sometimes, that meant taking a new, clean piece of paper towel, also wetted with turpentine, to continue the process. Essentially you are finger painting with the paper towel, though I would use the entire tip of my finger up to the first joint, to spread the wash.
Through experimentation on my cage mast BB decks, I discovered that it was almost better to let the thickly applied burnt umber fully dry, then come back the next day with a clean, turpentine wetted paper towel to take down the wash.
You can experiment on the deck, or on some V groove Evergreen sheet. There will be variations in the application of the wash. It won't be a monotone coat. An IJN flight deck needs a moderate amount of wash, IMHO. Definitely not light.
I hope my explanation is reasonably clear. I really don't understand why more folks don't do this.
I suppose it's also possibly to apply the paint and the gloss coat with a brush, but I think the spray will work much better.