Uwe,
No problem, mate.
anj4de wrote:
...getting back to a possible model, are there VLS parts available in 1/350 and 1/700,
No public resin. I know Flyhawk does 1/700 in PE, but that's super %%%.
anj4de wrote:
...or can you recommned kits were those are represented in a way that copies can me made by casting resin, please? I am rather new to new Navy stuff, had to look up VLS on Wiki and youtube first to see what was meant.
fo'shizzle! The Spruance-class DDs or USS Port Royal/Bunker Hill/Phil Sea will do it for you. Those are CGs with VLS components. PM me for more intel.
anj4de wrote:
Another question...and forgive me since I am a total amateur with heavy guns...but would changing the 16" to smooth bore and adopting ammo like the one used for the 120mm tank cannon be an option to be looked at?
Unfortunately, no. Tank guns, field artillery, and naval gunnery are totally, totally different. Tank guns like to use subcaliber darts that don't use rifling. Tank guns do what are called "straight shots". They shoot at targets that are only a mile or so away. This means that they are firing at pretty much a flat trajectory. As a result, not a lot of stability is required with their projectiles. Instead of rifling, they can use fins or drag cones to keep the round stable. Naval gunnery fires to dozens of miles away, and that requires high angles of fire and long, long, long periods of flighty. That means it has to have the "spinning-football effect" that rifling gives you. As a result, subcaliber darts are not good for super long range gunnery like you get out of naval guns. With naval guns, you need to have rifling so you can use the largest range of projectiles as possible. However, subcaliber projectiles using sabots are just fine (such as the 11" subcaliber round foe the 16" guns).
I hope that helps.
navydave