The Ship Model Forum

As I mentioned before, the main compass was turned by a comrade of mine, Eberhard Türck. Meanwhile he has finished it and I want to present this marvellous piece of work:



It is turned from perspex so the cupola could stay clear. The rest of the compass was painted with Model Master Metalizer Burnished Steel and polished afterwards to get a brasslike finish.

Last weekend the now completely finished Cerberus was the first time on the water. She proofed very well with satisfying speed and good steering quality (although I lost one of the propellers). My fears that because of the low freebord she deck would become quite wet did not come true.







Cheers

Dirk

VERY VERY IMPRESSIVE!!
Looks very good on the water too!


Thansk for sharing here!

JIM BAUMANN

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Great!
Loosing a propeller seems to become some sort of a ritual when you take yor ships to the water for the first time. Perhaps it is a sacrifice to a minor Neptune (responsible for the modellers).
Congratulations to your perfect model. I'm sure I will build one of my own in the future. Of course with the rigging.
Schmidt

A very nice build Dirk
She looks lovely on the water to

Roy

Congratulations on a superb model Egberth. A couple of questions.

1- Can you tell me why you think that the auxiliary compass had two sets of steps?
2- Also why do you believe that the pumps remained under the aft ladders on the upper deck? I have not seen them on any photos apart from the 18970's photo of the quarterdeck. See the photo of the quarterdeck in the 1890's at http://www.cerberus.com.au/qtr_deck_right.jpg

Always open to new information. We still have too many unanswered questions.

John Rogers
Fleet Engineer (Victorian Navy)
website, research & Friends of the Cerberus President.

This photo from the Cerberus in drydock shows them clearly:

http://localhistory.kingston.vic.gov.au/img/article/240_3.jpg

I think the coloured graphic of the crew and the band on the aft deck was painted after an existing photo and the artist just overlooked the second set of steps because of the sailor standin right in front of it.



I don't think the wheels under the aft ladders were pumps (you wouldn't have been able to attach levers in this position and it would have been nearly impossible to work them with just one man) but wheels to work the watertight doors. Apart from the picture of the quarterdeck in 1869 (I beliefe the photo must be taken when the ship was still in England because of the black breastwork, that seems to have been painted white as soon as the rigging was removed when the ship arrived in Victoria) these wheels can be seen on this photo:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/Cerberus_%28AWM_300036%29.jpg
(Assumingly from the 1870s; you have to enlarge it a bit to see the wheels under the stairways)

I think the must have been abolished about at the time when the two masts were replaced by the single fighting mast as no picture show them after that.

Hope this will help.

Dirk

G'day Dirk,

Congratulations on a job well done!!

I am soon to embark on Combrig's 1/350 resin kit of Cerberus and your venture (and that of Edward's) will come in very handy.

Now, what will it take to convince you to undertake the creation of some 1/350 PE for the Combrig kit and, perhaps, some hull PE so that we can create a hull for the kit similar to that detailed somewhere else on this forum (I wish I could find the link for that again)?

cheers,

bj

_________________
Happy to help with research & assistance regarding medals to Australians.

Hi Brad this photo of Dave Abbott's 1:72 Cerberus might also be of some help .
I have a number of close in detailed shots of this excellent model

Dave Wooley

G'day Dave,

Thanks for that - the more pics the merrier (I think....).

The only issue I can see I will have with this kit is determining which period Combrig had in mind and then lining this up with what I have in mind for her, too (which, at the moment, is anybody's guess).

cheers,

bj

_________________
Happy to help with research & assistance regarding medals to Australians.

What is a PE?

Dirk

PE is the abbreviation for Photo-Etch

Many firms make dedicated PE sets commercially for dedicated ship kits, often of very high quality.

JIm Baumann

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

G'day Dirk,

Yes, I saw your work here on Cerberus and thought it would be great if you could downsize your photo-etch to 1/350 and, perhaps, add some bits that are better done in photo-etch than in other media when dealing in that scale (such as ladders and railings).

There is nothing else available for this kit in 1/350.

Also, the Combrig kit doesn't have a full hull so something there would be good, too. (I'm not fussy)......

Just a thought.

cheers,

bj

_________________
Happy to help with research & assistance regarding medals to Australians.

Well, due to my other modelling projects (and the organisation of a renaissance fair at the end of october) there is unfortunately no time to design an individual etch set or an underwater hull for the Cerberus in 1/350. But feel free to use the layouts from this thread and resize them yourself. Although I would strongly recommend to etch them from brass not thicker than 0,1 mm, otherwise the undercut will make some of the thinner structures disappear.

Also the making of an underwater hull should be no problem. Either rescale the frames from the paper model (and adjust them especially at the stern, because these frame just don't fit) or from the plan and make a master from styrofoam (you can even add the plating in the described way, just using less layers of spray-filler), take a silicone mold from the master (a guide for making silicone molds you find here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=54770 ) and cast the thing in resin.

Cheers

Dirk

Completed