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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:14 pm 
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Dan Kaplan's review of the Hasegawa 1/350 IJN Destroyer Shimakaze “Late War” Version has been posted.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 7:09 pm 
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Great review, as always from Dan. Looks like a great kit, nice price, and I do love the rigging guide(hint-hint, kit makers of the world). Yeah, I see myself doing this one soon. Thanks Dan for sharing your knowledge of IJN things, it has made this hobby very historically interesting and saved me from a few headaches. A smart model company should hire you as a consultant on any future kits or new tooled reissues.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 7:22 pm 
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You are most welcome, Gary. I'm thrilled that the reviews are of use to anyone.

I love your thought, but it's likely to remain a pipe dream. The Japanese model manufacturers seem to have all the consultants they need. Not that the manufacturers chose to listen to all that the consultants say or lobby for.

They'd be even less likely to listen to me, a gaijin. What could I possibly understand about the IJN? :smallsmile:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:13 pm 
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I'm new to modeling, and I just got this kit for my first attempt! Pretty excited and a little apprehensive. what does it mean by open holes?I"m looking at the instruction and I am pretty confused. Also, what does it mean when they say please paint the display stand X1 in a free color? does that mean paint it any color you want?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 6:17 am 
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Open holes means to create a hole in the denoted area, usually so that the "plugs" for another part can fit in there. You can do this either of two ways, depending on what you have at hand: twisting the tip of your #11 xacto blade, or drilling the hole using a drill bit held in a pin-vise.

The stand can be painted, of course, in whatever colour you want.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 12:21 pm 
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IIRC, most of those holes are meant for the single 25mmAA mounts. I also believe that there are guide holes for placement recessed in the underside of the deck. Hasegawa is using the same deck pieces for both the early and late war versions. It makes sense to keep the deck as whole as possible for the early war version, but to provide a template for cutouts on the underside of the deck for the late war parts.


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