At 'Em Arizona Fans!

[SeanF]

The January 1941 refit added the large cube-shaped AA directors on either side of the bridge, the triangular cage-style yardarms on the foretop, splinter shields around the 5"/25 AA guns, four tubs to hold 1.1" AA guns that were never installed, the large "birdbath" on top of the maintop, and additional .50 cal machine guns. There may have been some other minor changes as well. The radar platform on the foretop that's included with the kit wasn't added until at least August '41. Backdating the kit earlier than Jan '41 isn't really that difficult, but the bridge would need the most alterations. I noticed in the 3/30/39 pic on page 214 of Stillwell's book that there were a lot of obvious changes in the shape of all four levels of the bridge versus 1941. Nothing a good scratchbuilder can't handle, but a bit above my skill level.

Also, don't forget the range clocks present until about September 1941 - Arizona probably lost them at the same time she gained the radar platform. I see they're included in the new WEM PE set.

A couple side-benefits to saying your Arizona is in Feb. 1941 fit: you sidestep the whole 5-D/5-S issue by painting her standard gray, and you can justify the use of full-color Kingfishers!

- Sean F.

[kurt]

Tissue and white glue is very easy to work with. Just make a couple off of the model to get the feel for it.

[Steve Sobieralski]

I believe this photo shows the support for the stern awning. The bow was probably similar.

Some of the "holes" can be seen in the backgound and also in this picture:

These appear to be too large for awning supports, about two plank widths or 10"-12". They may be decklights to transmit daylight to the crew spaces below

[BFR4570]

I believe this photo shows the support for the stern awning. The bow was probably similar.

awning support.jpg

Some of the "holes" can be seen in the backgound and also in this picture:

decklights.jpg

These appear to be too large for awning supports, about two plank widths or 10"-12". They may be decklights to transmit daylight to the crew spaces below

On the second picture, I believe you are correct. But these are not the holes I am refering to. This picture shows one of the holes at the bottom of the picture next to the Admiral's cane. As you can see it is about 1/3 the width of a plank.
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/013982.jpg

There appears to be one in the lower right corner of this picture of the Pennsylvania.
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/013803.jpg

There are a few photos in the Arizona bible. I posted the pages elsewhere, but I can't find my book right now. Possibly Page 169? One picture is of the band practicing on the starboard Engineering Hatch. It clearly shows several of these holes. They are also about 1/3 the width of a plank.

P.S. I noticed a couple pics on the Navsource site for the Pennsylvania, and the New Mexico, showing deployed canopies.

[davidwaples]

I believe this photo shows the support for the stern awning. The bow was probably similar.

awning support.jpg

That is an excellent reference photo! Thanks for sharing that one. I can't quite figure out what it's tied to on top of the turret.
Dave

[Bondoman]

A little while ago I did a bunch of research into where the B-25s were tied down and how for the Tokyo Raid. A retired sailor gave me this advice:
"give a sailor a length of line and you get a lot of knots".
I think this is a great idea for anyone modeling 12/7/41. Those awnings are a tragic thing- sort of the bridge between the peaceful past, at least for the US, and a very violent future.

[kurt]

Does anyone know how accurate overall the Profile Morskie USS Arizona plans are?

[Leftie]

Just another question. Where can I get scale replacement PE ladders for the turrets for my 1/200 Arizona? I don't want to spend over $30 for a bunch of 'stuff' I won't use.

Thanks In Advance...

[kurt]

I stumbled on this build of the Arizona on a Spanish modeling site. It really is amazing. This is the gentlemen's first serious ship model. (he is a master plane modeler thought). Between Babblefish and the pictures it is enjoyable. Beware, this guys seem to hug an awful lot!

http://66.196.80.202/babelfish/translat ... ic%3D705.0

[CF104]

I stumbled on this build of the Arizona on a Spanish modeling site. It really is amazing. This is the gentlemen's first serious ship model. (he is a master plane modeler thought). Between Babblefish and the pictures it is enjoyable. Beware, this guys seem to hug an awful lot!

http://66.196.80.202/babelfish/translat ... ic%3D705.0

My anti-virus(Kaspersky) is blocking that URL through Babelfish. For those having the same issue here is the direct link:

http://www.u-modelismo.com/foromodelism ... opic=705.0

Cheers,

John

[kurt]

I am considering modeling the Arizona like Jose did in the build at the Spanish modelers site except maybe using KA Models' generic wood decking instead of plastruct sheeting. Any thoughts?

[mark_sch]

Kurt,
KA deck is sweet!! I would use it.
Mark

[Ensign Jay]

Hi there to all , just found this forum and signed up, I have just purchased the 1/200 Trump Arizona and already have the Banner 1/350 kit. Has anyone done a conversion of the Banner kit to a cage mast Arizona ? 48 pages to look through is gonna take me forever. Plus is there a 1/200 stud link chain available ?

cheers Jay

[BFR4570]

Hi there to all , just found this forum and signed up, I have just purchased the 1/200 Trump Arizona and already have the Banner 1/350 kit. Has anyone done a conversion of the Banner kit to a cage mast Arizona ? 48 pages to look through is gonna take me forever. Plus is there a 1/200 stud link chain available ?

cheers Jay

Welcome aboard Jay! In 1929, torpedo blisters were added to the Arizona that added several feet of hull to each side of her. All of the plastic models of the Arizona include this blister. If you remove the blister, you will basically have to completely rebuild each side of the ship from scratch. A MAJOR undertaking. Tom's Modelworks made a Resin Arizona in 1921 configuration, in 1/350 scale. This is the only model kit of the cage-mast version that I know of. There were also many modifications in 1921 so this model would also need some work to present her as originally built, but it would be much easier than converting a post 1929 model! The only problem with the 1921 Arizona from Tom's is that it is no longer in production. You may be able to find one on eBay. On this thread, "At 'Em Arizona", pay close attention to the links Tracy White included to many other builds of the Arizona. There is quite a collection of build information on these links. There are also many other threads in this forum with build information that can be used for the Arizona, on ships like the Pennsylvania (sister ship, and lead ship of this class), Nevada, Oklahoma, etc. These other ships were contemporaries of the Arizona and used much of the same equipment. Have fun researching!

For the stud-link chain, there was a recent discussion about it on the companion thread for the 1/200 Arizona, "Unboxing Arizona", Page 35, starting on May 24 about halfway down. There is even a picture of an actual anchor and chain on the last post on Page 35.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=62452&start=680

Good luck on your builds, and try to post pictures of your progress!

[Ensign Jay]

Thanks for the heads up , I will have to have a think on that early version , sounds involved but for the 1/200 I will check the other thread for tips , thanks for the welcome and will post as I go.

cheers Jay

[Ensign Jay]

Just in relation to the early version Arizona , does any one have a plan or know of where to get a plan for the - say 1916 Arizona, there is this one on evilbay but I am not sure if it would have enough detail ( if there is ever enough )

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT

I think I could do the mod to the hull , sounds like a great challenge.

cheers Jay

[Tracy White]

After having taken delivery of a set of Keith's props I decided to start in on looking at the 1/200 Arizona lower hull; it looks off, but I can quantify it yet. We start off with ADVENTURES IN MODELING MATHEMATICS! Below is an update to a chart I did, showing expected lengths and a conversion for frames into mm so I can start to look at whether the hull plans in Stillwell's book can be blown up (1/600 versus 1/200 scale) and used to check. Attached in case it's of any use to anyone else.

1/192 & 1/200 conversion and Frames in 1/200

[mark_sch]

Hello Tracy,
If you find any problems with the hull would you be complelled to re-work it?
Mark

[Tracy White]

It depends. I'm happy with the model above the main deck; but it just looks wrong below the tops of the blister. I'll make my decision based on what the plans show, and I'll post photos here.

[Tracy White]

OK, so I finally compared my 1/200th Arizona hull to plans to see if I could figure out what about the blisters was bugging me.

Executive summary: members of the Accuracy Police and Fellowship of rivet counters should just give up and not bother with this kit; even waterline the hull has problems.

So; methodology: took some 1/192 plans from The Floating Drydock, scanned in the hull lines, and reduced them to 96% original size in Photoshop to reduce to 1/200th scale. Printed out multiple copies and cut on the lines for a few selected stations (Tom chose to not follow the Navy frames and create his own; thankfully they roughly follow a 7.5 frame interval so it's not too difficult to deal with). Station 18 at Frame 135 (roughly the "leading edge: of the rear prop shaft A frame) fit pretty well. None of the others did, but they consistently fit bad averywhere, meaning it's not just the blister that's wrong, but the entire hull.

For example, the forecastle deck is the deck from the break forward; the hull sides below this deck has a slight tumblehome apparent in both the FDD plans an the Alan Chesley plans provided in Paul Stillwell's "Battleship Arizona" book. The kit lacks this; the hull sides are purely vertical in this area. So does this make the deck too narrow or the hull too wide? I didn't measure to find out.

The forward blister and sections are profiled incorrectly, and the blister is frequently too wide in areas. I may just heavily sand down the blister near the bottom to streamline it a bit more and call it good. To a "trained eye" the lower hull looks too fat and blobby, but 99% of the viewing population won't know any better.

That said, I do plan on trying to fix the prop shafts and struts at least.