The Ship Model Forum

So USS New York might never actually commissioned on US Navy with the small spotting top, the enlarged top was a post commission to Navy, feature?

Tumpeter has a 1/700 USS Texas to be released soon. Anyone know the specific date? Haven't found anything other then that. The USS New York was released mid october and I thought the Texas was as well, but so far nothing.

_________________
Complete:
1/700 USS California BB-44 (Trumpeter)
1/700 USS South Dakota BB-57 (Trumpeter)

in progress:
1/700 USS Montana BB-67
1/700 USS Houston CL-81

Waiting Drydock
1/700 USS Guam CB-2
1/700 Sigourney DD-643
1/700 USS South Dakota BB-49

After doing a search using various keywords, there doesn't seem to be a review for the 1/700 Trumpeter New York that was recently released. Just wondering if she has the same bulge problems that characterized the 1/350 version.

I am also inferring from the box art and scans of the kit's painting chart online that this New York is the late-war/1945 version.

_________________
"Haijun" means "navy" in Mandarin Chinese.

"You have enemies? Good. It means you stood up for something in your life."- Winston Churchill

Yes, and yes.

- Sean F.

The Trumpy TEXAS arrived yesterday at FreeTime Hobbies and has already sold out. I was lucky and got mine. It was shipped today and should be in Central Kentucky in a few days. I have long-awaited this wonderful dreadnaught.

My 1/700 Trumpy Texas is in the mail too!

Kyle

_________________
Shipmodels Gallery \/

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

Got mine yesterday from Freetime ,looks good has a 2 part hull P&S. I'm not to keen on that but I can live with it.

_________________
Fred Luhrs

]

Hi! First of all IDK how old this thread is, but I am familiar with forums like these,

Recently I've had a client ask for the USS NEW YORK, and this is exactly what kind of
help I am looking for. Currently we are working through the ship by area...And I'm stuck.

I know nothing about battleships because I mostly commission warhammer 4ok, and warmachine

I'm having trouble fitting the tower...Most of the instructions are straight forward, but you can see
my dilemma.

The brass railings are going to drive me nuts, I'm currently looking for a tool that has been spoken of
that helps bend brass parts and looking for sodering iron. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This site is paydirt. (Hey it's different then doing ww2 airplanes)(I needed some time off from WH40K)
Cheers!
~Daniel

You are looking for a Hold and Fold: https://thesmallshop.com/

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Daniel,

Welcome aboard. As an FYI, if you want to post progress photos of your build, it's best to start a new thread in the picture post work in progress sub forum, which you can find here: viewforum.php?f=59

Otherwise, these threads get bloated with photos of works in progress, and when the links break, there are lots of dead space in the threads.

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Some photos of New York, scanned from the National Archives, NARA II, in College Park, MD.

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Love that ‘42 camo! Thanks for posting these.

Has anyone attempted, or completed, a backdate of either the New York or Texas to it's WWI configuration in 1/350?
I know the hull needs to have a lot of work, but that is basic plastic work design/cut/glue/detail. To my mind it is the cage masts that pose the greatest challenge. While there are both photo-etch and 3d printed versions, I'm not sure it they could be used for this class of battleship.

If this idea is DOA, then I suspect I'll look at the 1930's pre-war. They served in that configuration longer than any other.

Thanks
Mike

If you're going waterline, removing the bulges entirely is probably easier than correcting their above-waterline shape (if you were to be so inclined) anyway. If you're going full-hull... you'll be pretty close to scratchbuilding the lower part to backdate it.

At present, there aren't any 1:350 cagemasts available (that I'm aware of) that reflect the lighter-weight look appropriate to the New Mexico class and earlier. Tennessee-class and follow-ups were notably heavier due to the larger spotting tops. Your call, of course; if shape is enough, go for it. (And speaking for myself, if I had a hankering to do a conversion like that, I'd go for it. Come to think of it, I do have this old Iron Shipwrights early-fit Arizona laying around that could use some cagemasts to inspire me...)

What do you think, Model Monkey Steve? Could 1:350 cagemasts be made finer? And/or sold in packages of two full-height masts?

- Sean F.

I think that redoing the lower hull may actually be easier that it seems.
I think that if you were to cut a plastic piece to "fill in" the opening for the new bilges - and brace it to the hull from behind - the bilges can be cut away and then the hull blended. There are a fair number of very good hull pictures of the New York class before the torpedo bulges were added.
The main deck would probably be easier scratched built as opposed to having all the gun mounts, etc. ground off - it would be easy to use generic decking to cover. It is amazing how simple the ships were until the 1930's/WWII. US battleships had open bridges until WWI.
It is a shame that there are no "plastic" and only a couple multi-media kits of WWI era US battleships.

Fully agree about the main deck - get some grooved sheet styrene and add all the period-accurate details on top of it; though I'd use the original deck parts for backing after shaving and grinding all raised detail off them. And don't forget to build the below-deck casemates before gluing it on! (Note: 3D Model Parts makes some excellent 5"/51 mounts)

Regarding the hull: I admit, this is one of my personal hangups. Forming a symmetrical and accurate 3-dimensional curved surface is something I find incredibly difficult and frustrating, and I tend to be pessimistic about it when I give advice to enthusiastic prospective ship-converters. So I apologize for that. I really envy those for whom scratchbuilding, or re-shaping, the complex curves of a hull is something they take on with ease and confidence.

- Sean F.

Luckily there are some decent hull plans to be found. Also, the hulls on US dreadnoughts were fairly simple, not a lot of tumblehome or curves. Looking at the pictures Navsource.org of the Texas/New York being built like this one -http://navsource.org/archives/01/035/013500i.jpg - and the main part of the hull is fairly "slab sided" - just a gentle slope
to the bottom curve.
It will take a chunk of sheet plastic, some bondo/epoxy-putty, a stack of sanding sheets, and a sanding block to get the bottom curve smooth.
Since this will be sitting in a "water" base - it's the top half that I'm most focused on.
I also have some scrapers I use for doing guitar bindings that are perfect for final shaping.
If I can get the masts sorted out this project is a go.

Saransk93: You know what you're getting into, and are confident in it. Please forgive my naysaying; I really look forward to seeing your project!

Regarding the masts: Aside from photoetch, the only ones I've seen in 1:350 are these:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/G4YXC ... areProduct



- Sean F.

Hi every one

I'm looking for drawings of body lines for battleship USS texas after modified hull. With added antitorpedoes bulges on each side.
tkanks for help
chris
PS. I have only without bubbles.