The Ship Model Forum

Airwing? She had an airwing?

I mentioned much earlier in this thread that I was thinking about adding tie-down holes to the surface of the flight deck. This detail shows up on many 1/700 aftermarket flight decks, but is uncommon in this scale for most IJN CV kits. In fact, the latex deck version of this Taiho kit and the Fujimi Shinano NEXT kits are the only IJN CV kits that I can think of that comes with the tie-downs molded in. It is more common on the aftermarket wood or brass PE flight decks, but I believe that is because their size can be better controlled for scale.

The actual tie-down was barely 4-1/2 inches (115mm) wide and 1-1/2 inches (43mm) deep, so its visibility in this scale is marginal. Still, I thought it worth a consideration as there are several 1/700 metal templates available. In my case, I had templates from Rainbow and Ocean Spirit.

It should be noted, though, that the templates are meant for drilling out the holes with micro-drill bits. Drilling out 1000+ holes was not something I was particularly interested in. Plus, doing so would then require having to paint each hole gray, as I have replaced the original, gray kit plastic flight deck with white Evergreen V-Groove sheet. So, this approach was not an attractive option.

It occurred to me that, perhaps, I could spray paint over the template and achieve the desired outcome. Risky, as it would require very careful positioning from section to section, not to mention a flush fit. Plus, the template holes are oversized. The Ocean Spirit template has holes at a scale 11” wide. The Rainbow template holes are better, at a scale 9 inches wide. Still, I decided to make a test deck made from the same Evergreen 2020 sheet, and experiment a bit with the Rainbow version, and an old Tamiya Junyo flight deck.

I spent a whole free day obsessively trying to solve the various tie-down hole obstacles. My initial concern would be that the flight deck seams would channel the spray paint beyond the hole into the seam, even if the template was firmly flush with the deck. Experimentation disproved that concern.

So, if the plate was flush against the deck, it worked well. But, because so many things would have to be taped off on the deck, the plate(s) would always be raised by the width of the Tamiya tape, and that did cause some spray dispersion, but within the holes themselves. They became larger and less defined. Beyond that, there were looming alignment issues to keep the holes in line along the length of the flight deck, and general overscale issues. Bottom line: it just wasn’t feasible for me, so I bagged it.

(I also considered the suggestion about creating a full deck decal of the tie-downs, but glossing the deck to add the decal seemed contrary to what I'm trying to achieve.)

It might have been a great additional detail, but I’m fine with how the deck is.

On a completely separate note, I’ll make some quick comments on the shape of the planking at the aft end of the flight deck. This is something I should have covered in the beginning of the thread, but lost track of. The Fujimi kit does not run the planking to end of the flight deck and round-down as does, say the Shokaku kits. Yet many plans and other interpretations do show the planking running the full length of the deck. The actual configuration is undetermined. My intent had been to run the planking full length, but somewhere in the cutting, I inadvertently mimicked the Fujimi deck.

The maneuvering lights and signals, crash barriers, and wind screen have been installed.

She turns out really nicely, Dan. Great work!

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Battle of Savo Island Collection (all 1/700)
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Prep stage: USS Vincennes CA-44 | Yubari | Kako

Very nice Dan! That deck looks great!

Thx, gents.

The engine room air intakes atop the flight deck aft have also been added. The PE pieces from Artist Hobby were oversized, so I substituted brass mesh and painted a border around them. Shame, though. I really like those AH pieces.

I’ve also started the installation of the arrestor wires. These are challenging. The Artist Hobby set is made of stainless steel, which has positives and negatives. Positive in that they are stiffer and can remain mostly straight while handling. These pieces can take some work because there are three attachment points to its fret: on either end at the base and in the middle of the cable. Cutting or separating the piece from the fret can leave a nub, particularly in the middle, which takes extra work to remove, not to mention further bending.

A definite negative of the stainless steel is that the paint can flake off where the tweezers holds the part. Their placement on the flight deck can also be challenging, because the CA can set before it’s correctly positioned, as well as potentially showing too much air under the cable and casting odd shadows.

I happen to have a more generic set from Five Star, which is what I ended up using. One, because they are also stainless steel. Two, because they have only two attachment points; one at either end. And three, because the bases are more correctly shaped and detailed than the AH versions.

Update:

At this point, the flight deck Is probably 97% done. I just need to add some cables to the safety barriers, the windscreen (which separated from the base – flimsy hinges, wonderful), and try to straighten a couple of the arrestor cables. These are surprisingly tough to place straight and level. They bow easily, and heat expansion and contraction make them throw shadows against the flight deck as they are slightly raised off the deck.

I actually took a break from working on the flight deck and switched to the island. This was much more fun. However, there was yet another typical Fujimi miscue in that there are a ton of portholes to eliminate where the funnel uptakes are located. This is common sense; the plans merely confirm it.

The island is dry-fitted atop the flight deck

Looking good!

Looks incredible and the color of the flight deck is an 11 on a 10 scale.

Dan,

She is coming along beautifully! Dunno what is is about the Taino, but she was one fine looking piece of machinery. Sorry to hear the kit had been such a bear, was really hoping that Fujimi would have done better. I have this kit along with their wooden deck and PE upgrade in the stash, will keep an eye on your build to watch for pitfalls.

Matt

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1/350 USS Portland CA-33 1942
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Thank you, all.

Yeah, I hoped the kit would be a bit better out of the box as well. Something more along the lines of their newer Hiyo/Junyo kit. I probably would have gone with the kit flight deck in that case. Oh, well.

Some more work here. I will explain the rationale for the changes to the superstructure in my next update.

Nice practicum Dan, I am picking up a lot of techniques . I someday want to build the Taiho. It was quite an advanced carrier.

Thanks, Scott.

Now, as to why I modified the superstructure:

Another one of Taiho’s conundrums has to do with the construction and appearance of some of her bridge decks. Some plans, most illustrations, the original Kawasaki Dockyard model, several large-scale models, the Tamiya 1/700 kit, and, seemingly, the available photos of Taiho all appear to show a typically rectangular superstructure composed of multiple (4) horizontal decks. The first posting below illustrates the typical depiction of Taiho’s bridge. Note that the red arrow indicates a small platform at the aft end of the compass bridge deck (the Japanese term for the command/navigation/charthouse deck) with a 30cm signal searchlight. Also note that this platform aligns itself horizontally with the top of the Type 21 radar array mounted aft.

However, the plan of Taiho drawn by the US Naval Technical Mission to Japan immediately following the end of hostilities shows an atypical internal arrangement. Here, at its midpoint, the compass bridge deck level slopes down one level, past the funnel uptakes, to the next deck. At the same time, the deck under it is abbreviated before it reaches the funnel uptakes. This doesn’t seem all that surprising, given how large the uptakes are. And, given the size of the bridge, and the desire to minimize topweight, the elimination of a portion of a deck is really not that unreasonable. That same small platform appears one level further down, aligned with the midpoint on the radar array.

Some folks (and, truth be told, this originally included myself) doubt the existence of such an arrangement. However, a closer inspection of Taiho’s photos shows how this common wisdom is incorrect. In both the posted photos, the red arrow points to the same small platform aft. Note that it is clearly lower than the bridge illustration indicates, and is aligned with the midpoint of the Type 21 radar array. This arrangement seems most indicative of an internally sloped deck as the USNTM plan stipulates.

Ok, so what?

Well, what is surprising is that Fujimi chose to mold its Taiho kit’s bridge so that the slope is externally visible, as opposed to hidden within the structure. This seems contrary to the photographic evidence. So, how to reconcile the apparent differences between the plans, the photos, and the kit in order to build the model?

Initially, I really had no idea. Then, leafing back through my references, I again came across the 3D CG illustrations created by Waldemar Goralski for the AJ Press volumes on Taiho by Lars Ahlsberg and Hans Lengerer, specifically vol. 2. I don’t know how he arrived at his conclusions, but his renderings made the most sense to me on how to accommodate the slanted deck within the bridge structure and still preserve the outward appearance as seen in photos. So, I’m using his illustrations as my guide, altering the bridge in a similar manner. (Ironically, the volume does not discuss the sloped decks of her bridge.)

Is my interpretation correct? I don't know, but I think it's close. Nothing can be certain until some long buried Kawasaki dockyard photo surfaces, or that M/V Petrel's decides to explore the wrecks of the Battle of the Phillipine Sea.

Continuing on with the bridge …

I chose to retain the kit plastic for the compass bridge and upper deck instead of using the AH brass components. I did remove the molded-on wind vanes above the bridge windows and utilized the AH PE pieces. It was slow, delicate work, but certainly worth the effort. I used the Fujimi PE bridge windows as well.

Given the multitude of bridge related equipment that has to be added, it seemed wiser to construct and detail the funnel next. I again chose to use the Fujimi PE related parts as these are stronger and easier to place, particularly for the funnel grill and grab rails. The funnel grill went on beautifully, but was too high. So, that had to be reworked.

Know that the kit’s molded on grabrails on the funnel do not lie horizontally from side to side, but angle upward to one side. Best to sand them down and place the grabrails yourself. The Fujimi versions are technically incorrect as these have a bottom anchoring bar, but they were certainly far easier to manipulate into position. The two kit auxiliary pipes on the port side went on with too much glue and had to be removed and the surface restored. 0.20” styrene rod replacements are a little tough to slip in under the grab rails, so 0.15” rod would be better if this happens to you.

The auxiliary pipes on the starboard side fit on just fine. The large support structure on the starboard side of the funnel had to have its bottom cut horizontally to fit properly on the corrected ledge. That was not as difficult as I thought it might be.

Very nice Dan!

Hi Dan

Nice detective / deduction job on the bridge slope!
It really makes some sense and the visual of it, is really distinctive...

As for the rest of your work so far: Top Notch, as usual!
Keep us posted

Cheers
Rui

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Joe, Ruis, thank you.

I then painted the funnel grey and black, to avoid more complications with handling once the radars, mast, antenna, etc. go on.

I’ve now added some voice conduits, railings where the bulwarks were cut away, the RDF antennas (and guy wires....only on the front so far), and some other details. A lot of this progress was painstakingly slow and riddled with mistakes. I’ve had to redo a lot of the work to get to this point.

Not everything that Fujimi has molded on is necessarily as depicted. For instance, I switched the access ladder to that small, circular raised platform in-between the Type 94 director in front and the bridge that holds a 1.5m navigation rangefinder. The kit places it's access ladder forward, but indications are that it faced aft. This kit's placement does not allow enough room for the inclined ladder provided for on the PE set to face aft. So, I just made it a vertical access ladder hanging aft.