The Ship Model Forum

Pascal - Thanks for the positive feedback

Rick - OK, your description has just saved me $ in purchasing one of the VM units for study. I appreciate your honesty and descriptive details re. that product. So, Tom F. is now on board for helping design the gun assemblies as a project of interest and I shared with him my design file for the FLETCHER class anchor chain - that was my Sunday project today and it's worked out well!

Today I designed the anchor chain as I was not pleased with the kit offering - mine is a complete chain, not just the top half . I printed and edited, the 4th edition came out to the correct scale. While I direw it to scale, the printing process somewhat shrinks the part (George Costanza knows Shrinkage!!! ) so I tried to match the kit part and now I'm satisfied that mine is a better item than Revell's. Take that Revell
Also, on the 4th edition I tilted the chains 30� to stbd and I think the result was positive. More drainage and less shrinkage!! Anyhow, here's what the design looks like and then the final part after printing: So, tonight I'll be working correcting the design for the AS-571/SLR RADAR antenna & support structure and get it ready for printing.

Hank

OhMyGosh Hank, that chain is incredible!! I don't know how you do it! Is it flexible, or is it just in one straight piece?

I can't believe how fast technology is advancing! Just since I started working on my ship!!!

Larry,

I appreciate the kind words - thanks!! At the moment, this is a fairly solid part - it's not individual links. Now, by my design, it would be separate, but I think if I were to scale it up and then print I might be able to get an actual chain. The individual links are not joined in the design file - but, the printer I guess at this smaller scale sees it as one long piece and prints accordingly. Now, at the far end of one of my two chains the opening in the link is there, so I know it CAN print these openings, it just doesn't. The computer software gurus can explain it better and in more technical (non-understandable!!) terms, right? One other thought on this - I may print out another set of these and while they are still "limp" (right after removing from the printer), I may try wrapping one of them around the capstan in order to get it to solidify in the right shape. All these parts get "cured" under a UV lamp which hardens them up (no pun intended )

I am amazed at what prints at times and what doesn't - it's a crap shoot, at best!! However, on average most of the details in my designs are printing and quite well.

Hank

As Hank found out with his chain, and myself with barrel springs, these small but geometrically complex shapes bring even a decent computer to a molasses on a cold day state. Make many curves in many orientations, constantly varying, and the machine literally screams at the surfeit of required one's and zeros. In the past I have gotten padeyes and sheaves to remain flexible at the joint, sometimes...

Keep up the good work Hank!

Tom,

Thanks, Again!!! I have been working most of today on the gun carriage/assembly - not a lot to show in terms of overall product, but it (as I have explained before) simply isn't a whap/bam....maam!! type of operation - I may be on this the entire week. And then...adding your barrel into the design file.

Hank

Hank:

I understand your issues in piecing together as accurate 3" 50 as you can. The paired 40 mm Bofors barrels and stand I printed today came out really nice. HNSA has some really detailed 40 mm manuals. More information that a model maker can use with exploded drawings of every small gearbox, shaft and motor. What would be more useful would be overall photos and drawings showing where everything goes.

Cheers: Tom

Tom,

Well, that's the exact type of manual I've been looking for and so far haven't seen one yet that's available. Certainly would be a big help!! Will be looking for photos of your work real soon

Hank

After 4 days of designing, I am printing a 1st edition of one gun assembly & barrel to see what does or does not print. Here is a shot of the design without a few other details I have completed (turned them off), but aren't relative to this post: There is quite a bit of equipment on both sides of the assembly yet to add, and as this is a dual mount, all equipment is not the same for both gun units. So, quite a ways to go - and I still have additional work to do on the mount foundation before it's fully completed.

I should know in an hour whether this has printed acceptably or not!

Hank

Well, the last printing came out so-so - there are issues still with this printing jog that comes & goes - we haven't determined what causes it. So, the orientation of the part for printing is rather critical as to the outcome of the part. (Sorry, but the resolution/clarity of this photos is not the best)
Actually, I'm surprised at some of the detail that DOES print well and also at some that does NOT print or prints poorly. So, this is something to try to figure out and improve. The spring coils are now nicely visible (thanks to Fliger747!!).

After some further equipment additions I will run another test print and see how that comes out. I'm also considering switching resins and see if that has a positive result on the details.

Hank

I tend to print the guns vertically, this is the position that has given me the best results.

I have not reprinted Bofors guns or 3 inch 50 since I got the new printer which is much more accurate, I would have to do a test.

13,2 mm Hotchkiss:

https://i.postimg.cc/rp1GTcZZ/Screensho ... 39-503.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9814RH1/Screensho ... 37-741.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/PJRYyqNJ/Screensho ... 21-517.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7YjSTbpQ/Screensho ... 13-568.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/RVxtTqS3/Screensho ... 43-020.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pXQFcxrs/Screensho ... 36-228.jpg

Pascal,

Thanks so much for the printing advice. I will try this orientation on my next print run. I also like your inclusion of photos of the Chitu setup - that leaves no doubt as to how to orient the part on the plate.

Hank

I also give a thank you (merci!) to Pascal for be very helpful to the two new printers here.

Tom

Concur. Try vertical. Takes much longer but prints like cannon barrels tend to look much better.

Steve,

Thanks so much for chiming in!!! I will take all advice into consideration!!! I find it interesting that you don't support the barrel along their vertical length. I have been doing that when I've printed vertical items.

Glad you're following this - stay tuned....!

Hank

Oh, I did a bunch of separations (into individual design files) tonight and also some additional work and improvements. Here are some of the sub-assemblies that will go on the mount deck: I hope to do some test printing of these parts tomorrow after I switch resins in the vat. Never did like Vat 69

Hank

Hank:

Some models of Quad Bofors also have a similar set of hand controls, though smaller. Their's are interesting in having a "deadman" switch in the handles which interrupts the command if the pressure on the switch is released. Looking at the complexity of these weapons (Including the 3' 50) I would expect that a lot of continual MX work was required for reliable operation. For my Bofors, I have had very good luck with printing at a minor angle, 20 deg or so. Experiments at near verticals did not improve the barrels and spring rendition, but severely impacted some ancillary items like the ring and bead sights and the rear of the receiver. Perhaps it is my own foibles of SLA printing and my machine, but attempting to print Missouri Turrets vertically would reveal an aft section that would be very bad and require sanding and filling. My LCVP's have this problem, but as the bottom is the least visible, I am willing to invest a little time with glazing putty and wet sanding to smooth this part, with the reward of the rest of the boat coming out very well.

Your breaking things into pieces does allow best orientation in a situational manner, though with the downside of having to assemble things. So far my somewhat complex Bofors print optimally with barrel assemblies and mount as separate pieces, mostly due to being able to orient the barrels and equipment with optimal supports.

Cheers! Tom

Tom,

Yes, the abilities and limitations on what these particular printers/design software allow or don't allow is quite the unknown. I'm currently printing 3 sets of the projectile cannisters and raised chassis plates and those are tilted at about 60� from horizontal with extra supports added to the upper sides, etc. We'll see how they turn out. I increased the scale by 0.5% (105% overall) to see if that compensates for shrinkage.

Putting all the tiny pieces together once I have everything printed correctly will be an interesting exercise, no doubt.

Hank

Several months ago I asked Tom to print out the pilot house railings for me as I didn't seem to be able to get a decent print, and he complied - mailing me the finished part. I'm now ready to assemble it on the pilot house and guess what - it's too small - it should fit over the edges of the bulkhead, not side inside on the pilot house overhead decking. So, I set up the printing file again and after 2 unsuccessful attempts, have finally figured out a way to get a successful print - turning the part upside down and extending the supports from 7mm to 12mm. For whatever reason(s) unknown to either of us (I'm thinking software) there is a jog that appears about a 1/4" in height from the bottom of the printer vat surface. So, by extending the supports, I'm essentially letting them take the jog and leaving the part to print out ok. So, here's a pic of the printed handrails (upside down) - I've had it curing overnight and it should be ready for removal and painting today: The problem I've had with the earlier versions (there were several others from last fall) is that some of the railings were printing flat and were distorted. Turning this over somehow resulted in a good, usable part. So, as I've mentioned before this is a constant learning process. So, later today I hope to remove & paint this item, of course a test fitting is 1st, fingers crossed

Continuing tomorrow with my 3"/50 Dual R.F. gun mount design (with a bit of Tom's help also!!) - this is a major undertaking for a novice 3D design student such as myself

Hank

So, among other things today I did get the P.H. railings installed and also set the Mk. 37 in place to see how things are shaping up: So, this entire unit is comprised of 3D printed parts:
Pilot House (Model Monkey)
Pilot House Railings (hms3/TFalley)
Additional details (hms3)
Mk. 37 GFC Director (hms3/TFalley)

There is touch up painting to do - but, at this point as fragile as the railings are, I have no plans to try to trim any of the little "stubs" where the supports were located as I don't feel like breaking this and having to redo the whole thing. I also have bulkhead handrails & a couple other items to add and then I can call this "probably done"

Hank

Hank:

The support nubs are a little irritating. I had a large number of these on my Bofors, which were repleat with fragile bits as well. The flush cutters get a lot of these, but I wonder if one could take some very fine sandpaper and glue it to a tongue depressor and worry these off?

Looking forward to further detailing of the interesting bridge area, always a focal point of any model!

Regards: Tom

Tom,
Yes, they are (support nubs irritating) - but, I'm thinking that since the railings are now glued in place, they "seem" to be a bit stiffer and able to withstand a bit more effort to remove those nubs. I'm going to use a brand new #11 scalpel blade and see if I can't trim them a tad, and then touch up the paint.

David P,
A nail file simply won't work - but, you would only know this if you actually have worked with these 3D resin parts. Their fragility is extreme and trying to file something such as these fine parts would require more of a sanding surface than the smoother nail file would provide. In addition, the back & forth motion of sanding, etc. would not have positive results on these parts. Thanks, anyhow for the reply!

Today's efforts (while waiting for the Extreme Weather to arrive here in the Piedmont, NC area) I've been redrawing the Elevation gear & train for the 3"/50 gun mount - I am about ready to mate this equipment with the main foundation file and see how things fit. Always a challenge, esp. for someone with as little experience as I have with the 3D design, etc. Here are a couple views of the equipment and one of the actual gun mount: In addition, there is a need to simplify this in order to get a reasonable printed part of the equipment without losing a lot of the detail at this scale. So, this is a compromise in what we want to have detailed and what will actually print.