At 'Em Arizona Fans!

[Tracy White]

Yes, the glacis plates were modified in the 1929-31 modernization. Different outlines are shown in Paul Stillwell's "Battleship Arizona" book in the rear plans drawn by Alan Chesley.

[Hippy Ed]

Thinking about buying an Optivisor myself,
however the question is which lens is the most practical for P/E ?
Regards
Richard

You wont be dissappointed I got one a few years ago on a Dr's visit... Man, it makes doing pe & decals on 1/700 alot easier!!

[Ensign Jay]

Yes, the glacis plates were modified in the 1929-31 modernization. Different outlines are shown in Paul Stillwell's "Battleship Arizona" book in the rear plans drawn by Alan Chesley.

Ah Tracey , you even know what they are called ! great . I was looking at the Edward set photos and the "glacis plates " in that set look right for the early version (1916/1917 ). The whole turrett will need re-working , but I might do one and mould the rest.

cheers everyone , Jay

[Ensign Jay]

This drawing I sourced off evilbay shows the elevation at 30 deg

[Atma]

This was the max elevation of USS Nevada and USS Pennsylvania class, after the modernizations of the the battleships during the 1930s, the old 35.6 cm guns were constructionally upgraded and their chamber volumes enlarged to allow larger charges for an increased muzzle velocity. Marks 1, 3 and 5 became Marks 8, 9 and 10, respectively. The Mark 12 was a further conversion which added chromium plating to increase barrel life. Guns had either a horizontal or a down opening Welin breech block and used a Smith-Asbury mechanism. These guns were interchangeable and most battleships had a combination of Mark numbers.
In contrast the IJN Fuso an IJN Ise class had a maximum elevation of 43 degrees, USS New Mexico class and USS Tennessee class had a 45 degrees maximum elevation.

[john53]

OK I went to a few sites and was given ideas on how to bend PE. One said to
use an Exacto chisel blade and a mouse pad. I tried it once on the flag booms and
it came out a bit wavey. The second time I was more cautious of where I "aimed",
not bad. Any ideas on how to fix the wavey one or better ideas to bend. Don't have
a Hold and Fold so its going to have be manually.Thanks---John

[Tracy White]

A mouse pad? Hmmm I'm more inclined to some something hard; the mouse pads I've used have all had some give to them for cushioning, which can allow the bras to distort. A chisel blade is OK for small pieces, but for longer bends you should try a straight old razor blade. I don't have a sure-fire way for removing the waves; I've bent aluminum metal when I was an aircraft mechanic and that's influenced how I handle photo-etch. What you need to do is either un-bend it and flatten it out before bending it back (recognizing that every time you do you weaken the thin bend areas and risk breakage) or using something narrow to try and "influence" the waves, either by pulling them back a bit if they're too far in or pushing in a bit if the area's not bent enough. Lots of possibilities for overdoing this though, so I'm inclined to say unbend and then flatten and bend again with a razor/box cutter blade.

Also, general PE questions will get more traffic and techniques in the main forum.

[john53]

Thanks, I unbent it and a couple of the tabs broke. I flattened it good and re bent,
this time as an OPPOSITE hand. I originally bent both for the port side unknowingly.
I super glued it where the tabs broke and worked it straight with my fingers, not
too bad now. I will post PE problems from now on on other main page.---John

[OS1880]

I generally use 2 single edge razor blades, one to hold the part and the other to lift , I do this on a piece of tile, which is also used as a base for cutting the PE from the fret.

[BCBilly]

I bought a 18" piece of floor tile at Home Depot for about a $1.99 . It makes a great work bench for details like PE work .

[Hippy Ed]

I bought a 18" piece of floor tile at Home Depot for about a $1.99 . It makes a great work bench for details like PE work .

Best thing to use

[dsk]

70 years ago today.....

On December 5, 1941 the battleship Arizona returned to port for the last time, reaching Pearl Harbor following some fleet exercises off Hawaii, during which time some aboard reporting seeing a suspicious periscope in the water nearby. Upon returning to port she was moored at berth F7 off Ford Island. She remains there to this day. In commemoration of the upcoming 70th anniversary of the attack I present a slideshow of my 1/200 Trumpeter Arizona, all finished save for rigging (which I'm still struggling with figuring out how to do).

http://s900.photobucket.com/albums/ac21 ... =slideshow

[mark_sch]

dsk,

Excellent looking Arizona. Thanks for sharing the link to your pictures.

Mark

[Timmy C]

Immaculate! Looking forward to the post-rigging photos!

[Hippy Ed]

70 years ago today.....

On December 5, 1941 the battleship Arizona returned to port for the last time, reaching Pearl Harbor following some fleet exercises off Hawaii, during which time some aboard reporting seeing a suspicious periscope in the water nearby. Upon returning to port she was moored at berth F7 off Ford Island. She remains there to this day. In commemoration of the upcoming 70th anniversary of the attack I present a slideshow of my 1/200 Trumpeter Arizona, all finished save for rigging (which I'm still struggling with figuring out how to do).

http://s900.photobucket.com/albums/ac21 ... =slideshow

Awseome!! Thanks for sharing! I will be waiting for the rigging to be done...

[john53]

AWESOME!!!!! Is that the "blue" color?---John

[dsk]

Thanks for the compliments, but at this point I could really use some guidelines for rigging. I've tried rigging up another model for practice, but nothing's working. I've used sewing thread (standard and nylon) and fishing line, but I can't get it to stick to the model using either CA or Tacky Glue. I then tried stretching sprue, but it's inconsistent and I can't stretch a long enough section to span the distances on this huge model. I already read the how-to's on this site but didn't have much luck.

John, it's Modelmaster's Gunship Grey, sorta in between the 5-D and 5-S. It was the closest I could come out of a rattle can without having to mix colors and shoot it, something else I haven't gotten good at yet.

[BFR4570]

Well done! I like the colors. The brown linoleum looks great! I hope mine can come out even half as good as this one. If it does, I will be a happy camper. Excellent job on the slide show, too! for posting!

[Tracy White]

It might be a bit of an investment, but have you tried Suture? You can buy non-sterile cheaper than the sterile.

[dsk]

Thanks for the tip, but I'm not sure I want to risk $30+ for something that might not work either. I know it's just that I'm doing it wrong, because everybody else uses the same stuff I tried. Thankfully I've got cheap ship models laying around that can act as guinea pigs instead of screwing up a nice one.