The Ship Model Forum

The first image shows glueing the roof onto the top of the superstructure with a little weight on the board to keep the sheet of wood from curling up from the glue. The second image shows the aft starboard side where I've started plating up to the side knuckle. The third and fourth images show the port side with the lower edge of the knuckle fully defined.

Two stages in sculpting the extreme bow, with the anchor housing.

Now with the bow closed up, and some filler and sanding to cover any gaps in the fit, the model is really looking like the warship I envisioned.

Great work Mike!

Yes your skills at woodworking are really first class... Please go on with with full scratchbuilding and "personal projects" ships !

Stephane

These two photos compare the FFG-63 design under construction with its prototype FFG-62, completed 8 years ago.

It has taken me a couple days to fit the flat sheet upper hull and superstructure to the starboard side. The piece is over 17 inches long and it took a lot of fitting and sanding for it's concave place. I couldn't get the perfect fit I wanted, so I got it as close as I figuired I would, then accepted the need for some filler. Some tape and weight helped it stay in place and flat while the glue dried. These three photos show the unveiling. Now to do the same on the port side.

I roughed out the sonar dome this weekend. Actually, I did it twice. The first time after it was all glued together, I realized I had omitted one layer to the laminate. Glad I hadn't glued it to the model! So I made it again with all the parts. Count twice, glue once.

It came out really good Mike!

These pictures show the completed sonar dome in place. The entire hull and sonar dome have been sealed with wood filler and sanded smooth.

I've added the bilge keels and stern flap. Both are made of 1/16 inch basswood. The bilge keels are sanded to be tapered towards the outboard edge. The stern flap is curved to match the bottom edge of the transom and filler is added on the upper side to give it a wedge shape, thicker against the hull.

I have started the painting. The pilot house windows needed to be done before I could attach the bridge wings. The scratch-built MH-60 flew in from the FFG-62 for the occasion.

I built a jig out of bench scraps to align the propeller shafts while I make the struts and glue it all in place. The jig uses the helo deck as the vertical reference for the propeller hub, and centers everything. This is the first time I've worked with aluminum rod and tubing, so I needed to experiment a bit with what worked best for cutting the tubing. The rod for the shaft is 1/8 inch diameter and the tubing for the bearings is 5/32 outside diameter and only 1/64 inch thick.

David,
The aluminum tubing was too soft and the hacksaw made a mess of it. Maybe there's a blade available with much finer teeth. What worked for me was to slide the tubing over a piece of the rod to keep it circular, and use the crimpers shown to work around the circumference, gradually cutting through. Then I just needed an emery board to clean up the cut end.

Another way to cut tubing is to chuck it in an electric drill. Start the drill (a variable speed drill is useful) and use a hacksaw blade (low pressure) to cut slowly until the tubing is parted. Placing a solid rod inside the tubing helps to keep it in shape.

Phil

The shafts and struts are completed, pending some red paint.

This last week has been mainly painting. I use acrylic paints from the craft store, applied with a brush, and using blue painter's tape.

I recall my post on the previous page from 27 April, where I talked about marking the waterline for later painting. Turned out that was a pathetic job. I was getting set up to paint the draft marks and discovered that the black boot topping was only 3/16 inch high instead of the designed 4/16 inch. Just a 25% error. Carefully measuring heights above the baseline to see whether I needed to raise the upper edge or lower the bottom edge of the black, I discovered the answer is yes; it's not consistent along the model's length. Some rework is required.
I suppose a laser level would have provided better results, but those are a bit expensive for this hobby. Is it Friday yet?

David, I originally used the tool in the upper right corner of the first picture here. I think it was too long, so it was difficult to adjust to the precise marking height, and it jittered when moving across the hull.
The second photo shows today's rig to mark the hull a second time. This one was made up of stacked wood pieces that fortunately worked out to the correct height for the bottom edge of the black boot topping. Adding a quarter inch piece provided the correct height for the top of the black. And it fit my hand easily for firm control, sliding across the tabletop. The bubble level and tape keeping the hull stable on the stand ensured that the hull was properly leveled for uniform results on both sides. I just made pencil marks every inch or two that I'll connect with the tape for new black stripe. Fortunately I don't need to cover misplaced black with red or gray.

Progress on the stack and radar tower.