The Ship Model Forum

[quote="russclark"]i have found that when applying the bondo putty on large areas i put a good amount of putty at the top and useing a credit card pull down in one motion as far as you want to go,do not piddle around with it to much,if you do it seems not to make it any better

If you overwork bondo, it will just trap air bubbles resulting in pits, harden too quickly, and tends not to adhere properly. As you found, just wipe on with decent pressure and let dry.

Hi Russ The Nagato hull is a tough one but you are getting there. It's always good to have ones own models on display .
Dave Wooley

thanks for the replys guys,i have a little problem, my drawings show were the prop shafts are but there is nothing on the distance from center ,it shows how far back from the props they are but not how far off the center they are.if someone could tell me the distance in 1/200 scale or the distance in actual size it would be appreciated.

Hi Russ, if don't failure my memory i do have a book of Nagato in home...
i can see it but to answer you just tomorrow(i am in the work now).
Regards

Is tis what you are looking for?

Bob

thank you very much akula ,that is exactly what i need

Hello Russ,
Stunning work so far. I'll be looking foward to next update.
Mark

just back from the cenotaph ceremonys downtown. the hull is pretty much faired now,added a stripr of .020 mm styrene for the bow bulge and glued it on with contact cement. i am slowly getting the hang of posting things,fiqured out what file comment means i can now add comments.should make things easyer to follow.now to fiqure out how to do hull plating lines, this is giving me a lot of head scrathing, not sure how to do it,any help would be appreciated.

Since this is (believe it or not) one of my favorite ships, I'm following with interest. You sure know what you're doing, great progress and great results on this very complicated hull!!! I'm eagerly waiting for updates.

i am still scratching my head on hull plating lines,on the bow and stern there are fairly heavy lines there i will use .020 styrene rod,but all the other welding lines are not as large if i was going to sheet the hull with styrene i could just scribe the back side and that would do it,but i have had bad results trying to sheet hulls with styrene.so i am not sure the best way to do it.in the mean time i have been working on the upper part of the hull where the lower 140 m.m guns are.

Very nice job on a complicated hull.

this is what i'm going to try for welding lines,i did a small piece about 4 in" long on the bottom to see how it worked,i used thin thread and ca gap filling glue it has a 5 to 10 sec. set up time. .i taped the piece on then put a few spots of glue along the thread,then i wetted my finger with spit and ran it along the thread.i did this to keep the glue from sticking to my finger.i tried doing this with stretched spruge first but the glue ate the spruge.the thread seemed to stick to the hull pretty good.all i need now is the courage to do a long line on the hull. has any body tried this or have any other methods i would love to hear them,before i proceed with this method.

Look here

Akula wrote:Look here

that looks good what tread is it in.

The guys in Japan are building a 1:200 Nagato

http://www.teikokukoubou.com/

Japanese only text

thanks for the pic.i have been on that site ,but for the life of me i can't find that pic.went from page 1 to 36 can't find it .do you think he leaves the tape on and paints over it.

I guess he does it the same way that Jim Baumann does on his 1/700, using tape as plating.

thanks for the input timmy and akula.i was not sure if nagatos hull plating was butt welded or overlaped,if it is overlaped tape will work good.by the looks of most models most people belive the plates are overlaped.i will do some experimenting with the tape method.

well i spent all day fideling around with differant methods of weld lines,the thread method was not good,to fuzzy,the tape looked to grainy,tried styrene but could not get lines to show through after it was painted,tried scotch tape it was not grainy, but when painted it would not show lines ..i tried stretched spruge before but the glue ate it. then a light came on!!!.if i used future as an adhesive it would'nt eat the spruge.this seems to work the best,most ship hulls are butt welded not overlaped ,so this shows a welded seam.

Try Archer fine Transfers. He has resin on decal sheets with different sizes.
PS You will spend a lot


Bob