1/200 Scale Group Build from 2015-17

[Mgunns]

.... Procrastinating on reshaping the stack top contours. Don't think it will be too bad.

Hello Tom:

From where I sit, the stack looks pretty darned good. I don't what the difference is, but if it is a small mod, it looks good to me. As mentioned, this would certainly make an interesting model to come out in the main stream.

[Fliger747]

The funnel cap is scalloped in profile rather than a straight rearward slope. The stack is made of plexiglass laminated so as to be hollow inside and sanded to shape. A little work with a Dremel and some hand work should do the trick. I hope...

[Cliffy B]

To whomever wanted scupper measurements I posted measurements from BB-64 with photos in this post:

viewtopic.php?f=74&t=158885&p=667297#p667297

[steinerman]

Thank you Cliff! I appreciate your measuring that form me.

[steinerman]

Greetings, friends,

When you mount your model on the stand, do you mount it permanently, like with washers and nuts, or do you just set it on the mounts so it can be removed?

[robertmelvin]

Larry, to be honest with you, a lot of the time I cheat. Now, keep in mind that I have never mounted a beast like yours. But, frequently, I will take the pedestal (I use Pontos' brass pedestals) and epoxy the bottom to the base, having carefully marked the locations I want them to sit at. Once that has set up, not long since I use 5 Min. epoxy, I put a bit of epoxy on the top of the pedestal and very carefully place the model where I want it to sit. If you are careful with the amount of epoxy you use, you should have no overflow on either the base or the hull. Using this technique I have never had a base and a model come loose from one another.

For something the size of your monster, you might also want to look at the Pontos pedestals. Very nice looking and very substantial looking. But, in your case, given the size and weight of that thing, I would use the mounting hardware that comes with them to mechanically fix the model to the base. And don't forget that when you are tightening down the nuts on the inside of the hull, once you have them where you want them, fix them in place with some epoxy. Its a situation where you literally only get one shot at doing it, you don't want them working loose due to temperature changes, etc., later on down the road.

Hope this was helpful.

Bob

[Channell]

I would not cheat and do a sturdy base with nuts/bolts on something as big as a 1/200 ship. I know the pain of dropping one by accident... trust me, you don't wanna be that guy (me).

[robertmelvin]

Larry, when I wrote about securing the hardware inside the hull with epoxy, this is what I had in mind:
http://s44.photobucket.com/user/hondama ... z.jpg.html

And, I didn't mean to suggest that you "cheat" on your build. I was just throwing out something I sometimes do in 1/350. For your 1/200 monster I would definitely suggest securing whatever mount you use with good, solid hardware.

Bob

[steinerman]

Thanks, Bob and Jason.

I'll take your advice and bolt her down. Only, Bob, I'm not going to use pedestals. Bear in mind that I just cut the pieces of wood out today and they are not routed, sanded, stained or anything - this is just the raw wood. Here is what my stand will look like:

The base is oak, 8-1/2" wide by 36" long by 7/8" thick. The ways are made of black walnut, 7/8" square by 7" long. I haven't decided how many I want yet - somewhere between 2 - 2.5 inches apart?? I'll have it on a felt base on the bottom and will locate 2 or 3 bras rods up through the ways and secure the ship with flat washers, and locknuts. I was just going to set the ship on the ways, but you guys talked me into bolting her down. What do you think? Think it will look OK?

[robertmelvin]

I like that very much!

Frankly I think that is a much better look for that ship, in that scale, than pedestals. I've been wanting to do a mounting like that but haven't married the want to an action just yet. Good decision. It not only looks better for her than pedestals would, but will also be a much more stable and sturdy mounting. You nailed it, Larry.

Bob

[steinerman]

Thanks Bob, but in looking at these pictures, I realized that the ways are too big. I'm going to cut them down to 3/4" square and possibly even 5/8. They are way too big for even this hull. Going to get the router out today and make some more sawdust.

[robertmelvin]

Larry, things are going to be apparent to you since you are actually looking at the real thing that photos don't really convey. I have no doubt you know what you are doing in tweaking your measurements a bit. But still, its a great concept nicely executed. It makes me think that I have gotten into a rut in mounting my builds, which are all full hull, on pedestals. Looking at that I feel like I need to be a bit more creative and do some different mountings. I've got a couple of CA projects coming up that would be good candidates for a treatment like that. Thanks for the inspiration!

Bob

[steinerman]

Hi folks,

Some time ago, I don't now if it was in this thread or my build thread, Jason made a comment that he thought the prop shafts on the 1/200 Trumpeter Missouri were a bit too small. Since I'm going to replace them with brass, I got on the Internet tonight and Googled it. I found an old Navy document covering the refit sea trials (1985) of the Iowa and in it, it gives the diameter of the shafts at 18.25" in diameter. I'm assuming that all the Iowa class boats had basically the same propulsion system, and hence the same shaft size. On a 1/200 scale model, this comes out to 0.09125". The shafts that are included with the kit measures 0.100" or, in other words, they are 0.00725" too large. So, Jason, it looks to me as they are just about correct.

Just thought you'd like to know......

[Fliger747]

Are you planning on leaving the shafts bare or painting them?

[steinerman]

Obviously not prototypical, but I'm going to leave them unpainted brass - just to make them look "Purty". I'm also going to turn the couplings out of brass, but I am going to paint them.

[Fliger747]

Hank would know as we discussed this for a while, but the keel blocks are about 4' square and about 5' tall, which includes square timbers dogged down on top to cushion the hull.

[Fliger747]

Unfortunately one can see the shapely lady has acquired a big bottom in the above photos. Mayb that was the way she should have been built but the trimming of the aft hull volume was necessary for good flow to the outboard propellers. Lack of hull volume aft is why light as in the museum condition there is such a bow up trim.

[BB62vet]

Re. the shaft diameters - REALLY? I was more concerned with the way the 4 screws were incorrectly molded than what the shaft diameters were or weren't. So, when I placed my order with Keith Bender for a set of his 1/200 brass props, they were made to fit my kit shafts.

No one, absolutely NO ONE will know what they are or aren't - but the props may be another story!!! I would simply use the kit shafts, make your couplings to fit and find some decent props.

[steinerman]

Hi Hank, Yeah, I know, a few thousandths is being relatively picky, I know, but as long as I'm going to buy the brass rod, I may as well buy the right size, don't you agree? And, don't worry, I'm tossing the plastic screws. The Advanced Detail Set by Pontos that I've ordered has replacement brass screws.

I doubt if I'm going to get a lot done on it this week. Life is getting in the way, but I should be able to show some progress on my build thread by this weekend.

Cheers,

[BB62vet]

Larry wrote:

The Advanced Detail Set by Pontos that I've ordered has replacement brass screws.

Well, I don't know what Pontos offers in their advanced set, but here is a comparison of the Trumpeter kit plastic props vs Trumpeter metal props vs the brass ones I bought from Keith Bender:

There is another 3rd party prop maker out there (G Force??) - but, Keith's props are as close to the originals as I've seen yet. They can be purchased in either high polish or satin finish. Expensive, Yes! But, IMHO, well worth it.

Hank