The Ship Model Forum

Indeed! Walking the decks it's generally not apparent how thick the plating is. Even entering a pilot house one would probably not notice if it was 10# or 30# plating. Maybe the only time this is apparent is descending through the armored hatches on the first deck on an Iowa. Constructing a model of your specific ship educates you a lot on your old floating home, many things you at the time never knew!

Cheers: Tom

Well, it's been a while since updating - I've been splitting my time "TRYING" to learn a 3D Mech. modeling program (Spark DSM) along with Tom Falley (Flinger747), who is miles ahead of me at this point So, when my frustration level tops out, I go back to my shop and work on the model (old school ).

I've been working on a usable 2D plan drawing of the 01 Level and have also been making the model 01 Level from scratch, sort of simultaneously. Although I had begun the CAD drawing 3 years ago, I never got it finished and now I'm trying to fine tune the details, etc. As I've discussed with Rick E. Davis, no 2 FLETCHER DD's were alike and the variations were either major or very minor. So, each one has to be tailored to that particular ship you're building.

In spite having quite a library of FLETCHER class 4-gun DD's to use for reference, finding specific areas of the superstructure or bulkhead can be nearly impossible. Luckily, Willie's photos of his visits to THE SULLIVANS has provided me a verification of other photos where I can compare 2 ships for similar equipment, etc. STODDARD was no exception, and her configuration, while similar to other West Coast 4-gun FLETCHERs, was in a couple instances unique. I generally compare the photos I have of her with her Division 212 counterparts - USS BRAINE (DD-630), USS COGSWELL (DD-651), and USS INGERSOLL (DD-652).

At this point I'm working on the 01 level decking amidships and as of tonight have assembled a mock-up of what I've done to date: As you can see, there was quite a bit of modifications to the superstructure of these ships in the 1950s. I now have flat red spray on hand and may start to prepare the bottom of the hull for painting. I've also received some oval cutting burrs for my Dremel and will test a sheet of styrene to see how well these burrs work in creating the "oil-canning" effect on the hull. With sporadic arthritis in the thumb joints, it's difficult to do this manually with a scalpel or X-acto knife so I'm opting to try the Dremel approach and see how that works out.

Hank

Good progress Hank! Working on the deck house modules and seeing them take form in detail is quite satisfying! Hard to believe, but often that photo where the camera went off in some random direction is the one that will show that elusive piece of equipment. If when you were aboard you would have been sent off for evaluation had you been running around taking photos of nooks with hand wheels, cranes from every angle? Spy?

Glad to see your progress posted!

Tom

It's been a month since posting so here's an update both on 3D design/printing and the model itself:

3D stuff - with Tom Falley's help via email, chat, phone I am slowly getting the hang of the design end of 3D parts. With his help in both design & printing advice, etc. I've been able to produce quite a few needed parts for this build:
6" Bitts, 10" Bitts, 12" Closed Chocks, Round/Oval Deck Scuttles, After Deck Hatch, Windless Control Box, various handrail/stanchion sets for the 01 Level, Pilot House, and Mk. 56 FC platform. Also, vent covers, vents, and the Pilot House Handrails with Masthead Light and Comm. Board (still a work in progress). We're working thru various printing problems - either hardware or software, so results (at least on my end!!) are not always "keepers". It's a learning process - all the way around. Here are a few of the parts I've gotten printed: In addition, Tom sent me a 1/144 scaled version of his Mk. 37 FC Director and I then printed one of my own in a different resin; actually now 2 items, each using a different resin. Here is the last one I printed: I will use this one as the item I bought in 2017 is not correct for my particular model.

The ship model - I have continued to work on the amidships deckhouse and various components located on the 01 Level above it as well as correcting the rudder to the 1950's era changes that were made: Yesterday I began rebuilding the Square Bridge/CIC Room that I had also bought as a 3D replacement for the kit bridge unit which was totally incorrect. This one also needed rebuilding as the changes made to the 4 gun FLETCHERs during the 1950s expanded this area due to advancements in electronics, etc. Here is the explanded part - I still have work to do on the Nav. Bridge to correctly convert to the STODDARD's configuration: This part was one of the older Shapeway plastic versions and it is a bit difficult to work with - brittle, waxy, etc. I'm glad 3D parts vendors are now using resin vs the older stuff!! - Well, except for Shapeways...

Sorry, but more is ongoing, I just haven't taken pictures that are small enough to upload and I don't have time now to do that.

Hank:

I do know how much effort you have been putting into this and really glad you are able to show us some of your progress. It's looking good and as with your New Jersey it's a unique representation of your ship when you were aboard. I'll bet you wish when you were serving you had taken a lot of pictures! One of the reasons I did a modern version of Missouri is that I was able to take hundreds of photos aboard. Amazingly I do have a few photos aboard her from the 60's, but not enough to do anything with.

Keep up the good work! Tom

Thanks Tom!!

Yes, I wish I had taken more photos at the time. Somehow, thru the years I've lost a couple rolls of negatives and the ones that I sent the cruisebook officer in 1967 I never got back. So, live & learn, right?

Hank

Hank:

I noticed an oddity in the blueprints above: The inclined ladder to the 01 deck is normal to the sheer of the deck and not vertical. My recollection is that vertical ladders and WT doors were installed vertical in orientation rather than following the sheer. On most ships not big item, but for instance on a small ship such as a tug with considerable sheer a significant item.

Any comments on this as my recollections of many years past are often surprised!

Stoddard is coming along nicely and steadily! Tom

Tom,

Not sure what blueprints you are citing - more details, please!!

I've tried to follow the sheer of the bulkhead as for laying out doors, vert. ladders, etc. I can see where a small tug with extreme rise in the curvature of the deck would necessitate locating doors, ladders, etc. where they are 90 deg. straight up regardless of the deck curvature below them. The DD's had some rise on the fwd. main deckhouse, but not a great deal. The after and midships deckhouse were just about, but not 100% flat.

Hank

Hank:

The blueprint was a "blue" one of a small section of the ship abeam and just fwd of the pilot house. It was apparent that at this point that the sheer was maybe as much a 2 deg. Hang a door in your house two degrees off and see how well it works, or perhaps a set of stairs (not so many vertical ladders in a house). Just check out the model and see if the doors and ladders (vert) are normal to the deck or the waterline. I didn't see the BP leafing back through, perhaps it was showing the sonar dome?

Fortunately very few USN designs have much sheer at all by way of superstructure areas. I did run into this on the APA where the stern deckhouse unusually has (of course) follows the deck, but the top deck of it is parallel to the waterline. Possibly because it has several AA guns located here.

Keep up the good work and always glad to see the progress.

Cheers: Tom

Tom,

OK, I understand now (re. the blueprint). On the FLETCHER class, it appears that the only real noticable deck curvature is when you look at the fwd. deckhouse - it begins to curve upward and the 01 Level - where the conning tower/nav bridge are joined - has a curve in its decking. So, when I added doors to the super. below the nav. bridge I followed the line of the deckhouse, not the decking and it seems to fall right in place with the existing door(s).

Hank

Raven's drawings in his Fletcher book are interesting to look at. Of course original source drawings such as your BOGP are best. The 01 level appears to follow the deck line sheer but the bridge appears to be more or less parallel to the baseline. You will end up with a very accurate model when finished, even kit bashing the kit bash parts. Between you and Willie a lot of interesting (to destroyer geeks) information coming forth.

Looking forward to the next progress reports!

Cheers: Tom

Thanks again, Tom!

Yes, this certainly is a bit different in scope from my USS NEW JERSEY build several years ago. I think both Willie's and my builds are both a good exercise in 3D model parts design/printing as well as scratch built parts where possible.

Wet/damp/yucky weather today, so working on rebinding my FLETCHER Plan Book (spiral binders are the WORST!!) as well as a bit of resizing of handrail diameters in design program.

Hank

Hi there Hank, Tom and all,

Fliger747 wrote:The blueprint was a "blue" one of a small section of the ship abeam and just fwd of the pilot house. It was apparent that at this point that the sheer was maybe as much a 2 deg. Hang a door in your house two degrees off and see how well it works, or perhaps a set of stairs (not so many vertical ladders in a house). Just check out the model and see if the doors and ladders (vert) are normal to the deck or the waterline.

OK, excellent tip, and thanks a lot. I had never thought about this yet, and time to do it now.

BB62vet wrote:I think both Willie's and my builds are both a good exercise in 3D model parts design/printing as well as scratch built parts where possible.

I hope they are. At least, they are an attempt to make the things yourself, something that --for me at least-- is way more satisfying than purchasing them somewhere else. My grandfather was a sailor and a fisherman, and for saving money he learnt to build his own ships. he lost four of them in several accidents, and he was standing once on the keel of his capsized ship for three days, before he was rescued. The narrative of Arthur Gordom Pym of Nantucket, by E. Allan Poe made real.

After he retired he got to build models to increase his scarce pension, following a building policy that was basically to go to the nearest forest to cut down a tree, and make everything else with little more than his pocket knife, with scraps of metal and wire, along with the linen sails that my mother sewed for him and his already fading eye sight, on the dining room table, just before an open window. I have seen some of these ships, and honestly, I wish I had only half the talent that he had.

I can only imagine what he would be able to produce with all the tools that we have today.

Here you are my grandfather in 1966, in his last shipyard: Gosh, how much I miss him, how much I would love to share (and build !!!) with him. I wish him steady winds, following seas and clear stars in the Great Beyond where he is resting now.

Nice going and best regards from across the seas,

Willie.[/size]

Willie,

Wow!! Thanks for posting - I enjoyed the story of your grandfather and his nautical life!!! The pictures are obviously a keepsake.

Designed a couple more parts today and will get the printer files set up for printing later this week. Side Navigation Lights and a Pilot House Locker Box. Will print in multiples for extras, etc. and so forth...

May have to get into the BIW drawings CD and see what I can find in the way of misc. items that were still in use in the 60s that may have detailed drawings - it's just such a PITA to have to try to find something in those folders - nothing is labeled, etc.

Hank

Hank:

You had mentioned to me the wooden gratings. Anybody know if those wee all beached during WWII as fire hazard? Lots of unnecessary items were beached, even the paint locker, linoleum removed etc.

Looking forward to the next update!

Tom

Nice job, Hank!

Have to admire Hank here as not being afraid to backtrack in the interest of improvement and accuracy. Here the amateur modeler, not on a tight schedule, has an advantage over the professional, not that there are a lot of professional model makers. Few of us fail to learn additional information during the construction process!

Cheers: Tom

Thanks, Tom & Iceman 29!!!

As for the bridge gratings - we had them in 66 and I've reached out to fellow Steamin' Demons to see if anyone recalls their size and shape. We also had similar gratings around both of the polaris stands on the fwd. bridge wings - confirmed that, but not size & shape.

This is one of those builds where it's 2 steps fwd, 1 step back and as you learn more about how a certain part of section of the ship was actually constructed, hopefully this can be translated into a better model. Using of course, a WWII era kit for a ship that has gone thru various modifications presents it's own set problems.

I hope to get out to the shop today to do some more 3D printing - I've revised my 4 whip antenna designs and "hope" that the next edition comes out better than the first one. However, we received our 2nd COVID shot yesterday at the county health clinic and now I'm feeling a bit "beat up" - but, this is temporary - I highly recommend everyone to get their shots when available.

Perhaps this weekend I may get some updated photos of the fwd. deck house, CIC, Nav Bridge, & Pilot House as I've been doing quite a bit of work on those areas.

Hank

Looking excellent, Hank!

Thanks, Steve!!

Since getting into the 3D design/printing of parts, etc. I can see why you are limiting new requests - design takes a LOT of time to get it to where it's a good part. Finding that out by trial & error!!


Hank