Scratchbuilt USS America CV-66 in 1/192 scale from plans.

[mclare]

What I did was get some heavy FG cloth at the Auto Paint store here in town and I laid down some wax paper under the hull and proceeded to glass the hull. So far this is only the first coat of resin. I will probably put two more on to give it some thickness.

I also have to fill in some sags between the ribs. I will use resin mixed with micro-balloons or straight Bondo. I will do some test and decide which is mo betta.

[Neptune]

err, that's a first. Never saw somebody using fibreglass without anything underneath. How did you succeed in soaking the cloth without really pushing on it? It looks however quite successful and straight, I assume this will be a good base for the following layers and eventual straightening.

[mclare]

err, that's a first. Never saw somebody using fibreglass without anything underneath. How did you succeed in soaking the cloth without really pushing on it? It looks however quite successful and straight, I assume this will be a good base for the following layers and eventual straightening.

Yes Neptune, this is the first base coat of F/G. What I did was to place a layer of .020 styrene on the bottom of the hull. That is what you see in the first pic. Then I resin'ed over that only, first, and let that dry. I pulled it taut, and let it dry. Then I worked the sides one at a time. I used the plastic Bondo applicators that you can get at the paint store. I saturated the cloth well and then draped it down the sides and kept working it stern to bow, keeping it as taut as possible. I kept an eye on it the whole time it was curing, continually pulling it tight. I went section by section down the starboard side first, then did the port side after that leaving the bow for last. I only have a couple of spot where it stuck out and didn't adhere well, but those are easily fixable. And I will have a lot more work to do on the bow. It's going to get a lot more resin and will cure solid, and then I will sand it to shape. I'll either use the micro balloons or Bondo on the filling. I used to use micro balloons on my R/C Jets for filling in the wings and fuse. Makes anything sandable.

I didn't know how well it was going to turn out, but Jorge kept cheering me on the whole time. Thanks Jorge! You are a good bloke!

More soon.

[mclare]

Neptune, a couple of other things I remember I did to keep it taut:

There was an ever so slight droop at both the bow and the stern, less than 1/8 of an inch at each end. The restr of the hull was dead straught, just those two droops. So what I did was to take a few self tapping screws with wide heads, the kind that have large washer like heads, and I screwed down the down and stern so that the FG would hold them up once the model was back vertical. It also kept it from moving around on the base.

I used the heaviest cloth that AV Auto Paints had, so it was a very thick weave. So after the "Bottom" of the hull was glassed down, there was very little shift in the cloth over the model. I used the Bondo scrapers like a squeegee, and I started at the stern each time. I would mix up 3oz of resin at a time, and I used those small water bottles for cups as the resin does not attack it. I would pour the resin on about an ounce at a time and work it over the surface. I had a good 6" hanging over each side so I could lift and hold it and catch the resin and move it over and get the next area. I just kept working it like that, and then when I would get a section done, I would pull it taut and "tuck" the cloth under the top edge plastic. By the time I had the next batch of resin ready (after cleaning myself all up!) the prior section was just starting to go off, and I would pull it tight again and then start the next section.

I continued that down the starboard side and then I started the port side after that. There are three areas that are "lifted" up and not attached to the frame underneath, one by the bow I'm not too concerned about and two mid-ships. I am still unsure on how to proceed vis-a-vie whether to dismount it from the board, fix the areas and then re-mount it down (but it won't go down the same way because I won't be able to re-screw it down), or leave it and coat it with two more coats, then dismount it and fix as needed. My concern is that the hull will be too thick at that point and harder to work, but one section may need to be cut out anyways. It's a six of one type of proposition.

I know there's going to be a ton of sanding needed and I'm still wondering if I should have hand carved the hull like my Arcadia, and after seeing Song's Yorktown hull, well that's a work of art. But I think this will work out okay, and it should provide ample room in the hull for adding the mech's for the elevators and lighting and other items.

[mclare]

Okay, so I decided to dismount the hull from the mounting board to assess where I really was without making it worse by added thickness where it is not warranted. I took scissors and trimmed off the excess cloth and most of the edges are good, but there is some filling needed. Also, there are 4-5 spots that need to be cut out and then I will lay a patch of cloth over the open areas. One thing I noticed is that the FG shell does separate from the plastic frames with a little bit of force. Not so much as to damage the plastic framework. I could probably peel the whole shell off if I wanted to and start over, but I don't think that's necessary though. Luckily, most of the spots that need to be redone are under spots where sponsons go. Most of the bow will have to be cut out and re-formed, not really an issue as I expected that.






These were the screws I used to hold down the hull while it was inverted.







The stern:


Port Side:


Starboard Side:


That rear starboard side was really wavy so I cut it out and here is what you can see I mean by the sponson will cover it up.. I probably wouldn't need to patch it, but I will.

[Jaguar]

Excellent work Michael. She is taking shape. I like it.

Jorge

[KevinYoung]

Any progress on the build??

[russclark]

wow, I to have never seen fiberglass cloth put right onto the ribs ,but it seemed to work quite well ,and yes bondo glazing putty is a very good filler easy to sand,i have found though is put lots on and spread it once ,it seems the more you play with it does not help..great work

[gtbred]

That is some build!!!!

[mclare]

Thanks to everybody for the great and inspiring comments. Due to personal reasons, I have had to put her on hold for about a year, but I should soon be back on her and I will post pics and an update soon.

IDK if I am going to keep the FG on. It was suggested to me by AdmHawk to rip it off and then re-lay it with .40 thou styrene, and I may just do that.

[Jaguar]

I am glad to hear about you again Michael. I hope to see new updates in your carrier soon.

jorge

[Capit�o Norbert]

Hi Michael good work the hull is very good
i would like to ask about the width of styrene stanchions.

[mclare]

Hi Michael good work the hull is very good
i would like to ask about the width of styrene stanchions.

I used .040 thou sheet styrene.

[gtbred]

Please Michael, let us know when you return to your build of America.

[mclare]

I am going to be resuming work on my America very soon! I just put a bid on a large house here in Maryland and I will again have a dedicated hobby room. I will be sending for all my stuff in the next few months and getting my office and hobby room set back up.

I am currently stationed at Naval Air Station Patuxent River in Maryland, the home of Naval test aviation, and we have a great museum here with most of the birds on our ships. If you need detailed pics of any bird, just lmk and I can go take them.

I am also teaming up with Randy Sleeman and he is going to be starting the same build, a 192nd America, but he is doing a bit older version though. Mid 70's I believe? He and I are going to be collaborating on making working items on the ship like the catapults and elevators, JBD's and the bomb elevators.

[mclare]

Quick update:

I close on the new house on April 6th and will be moving in on the 7th!

All of my possessions are currently being shipped from California as you read this including all of my hobby stuff!

So will be resuming my posts very shortly hopefully!

I will also be buying a 3D SLA printer in the very near future to print items for the ship.

[gtbred]

Great on getting your house. I will be retired in July so I have lots of time to see you and your friend builds.

[mclare]

Great on getting your house. I will be retired in July so I have lots of time to see you and your friend builds.

Come on out! I'll have room!

[mclare]

I just ordered a Moai 3D SLA printer to print out the airwing and yellow gear and Island and lots of other stuff! Should be here in two weeks. I move into the new house Friday and my stuff will be here Thursday!

I love it when a plan comes together!

[amdownunder]

Hi Micheal, awesome build, I like carries as well, one day, first question is that fiberglass sheeting and other bulkheads are they steyne, my buld I am using 1 mm cardboard sheeting since it is a water line model, being a teething curve if that is the right word.

Second model I could go that way with the second build with a full hull, the bow of my ship sure is a challenge , I am going to have to scratch build the ships fitting , like winches, don't think I be able to buy them in 1/78 scale ( HO scale).

Model ship is a side line to my model trains, in the near future switch to model boats.

Handy to get a book on your project and plans, I have some plans of my ship, have to calculate the plan scale to 87 scale.

Can't wait to you start printing up in 3/D your ships fitting, plans as well.

Keep the good up and pics flowing, have you started work on the bridge yet.

Tony from down under.