The Ship Model Forum

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I've printed two hulls, one of which will be boxed, stored and the other assembled.

The hull weighs around 600 grams.





















The delicate adjustments between the poop deck and the hull are quite good. With a bit of experience, you'll be able to get the design and deck tolerances right. This is always a delicate point with resin printing. For miniatures, no worries, but for industrial adjustments, it's a different kettle of fish...





You can see the difference in size between the Shell Welder and the Blythe Star, at the same 1/100 scale, one is 52.2 meters long, the other 44 at 1/1 scale.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=380946




The discarded front piece:

You can see the part of the stern I need to print to repair the rear section, eventually. I'll store this part if I repair it for a possible 3rd copy of the ship.

Well, I've moved forwards, backwards and forwards again.

I realised that I'd misplaced the rivet lines at the front, which was an error of perspective on my part. I saw it once the two front sections had been printed and glued, and as that's all I could see due to the model maker's syndrome, I tried to take off the 2 front sections of each hull, which was rather risky, but it went well without a hitch. :Respect:

I rectified the annoying error, and then a few others that were much less annoying. I've reprinted the 2 sections and improved the placement of the print media. That's 3 sections to scrap, they'll be used for various tests, paint, ageing, decals etc...


Gluing the 2 new sections back together, sanding the joints, and here I am again with two beautiful complete hulls. I took the opportunity to print the deck fittings, tank tops and accessories except for the rail, which I'll print separately.

I also repaired the 3rd aft section, the printing of which had been interrupted, with the stern piece printed separately. A good thing.


















Repair of the rear copy section no. 1.



The bow graveyard.

You can see that the rivets have been placed incorrectly and do not follow the vertical line of the hull frames.

Hexagonal tank domes specific to this vessel:







Nothing is glued yet, no bridges, nothing. I'm in the degreasing/adjusting phase. Painting and fitting the individual components, forecastle, tank deck etc. will come next.





I've started preparing the pipe sections for printing. Better order here...

I've used colors to visualize the sections that will be printed.

This is the live steam inlet pipe for heating the tanks required for pumping heavy fuel oil (HFO) if the ship is loaded with this product. Coils run along the bottom of the tank for this purpose.

As shown here:

If the ship is fitted with Framo-type submersible hydraulic pumps, for example, at the bottom of the tank for the most recent ships, a small heater is placed on deck for each tank, and the tank pump must idle at sea to bring the fuel oil to the heater and back into the tank.
This avoids the need for coils at the bottom of the tank and possible corrosion with gasoline, for example, but the disadvantage is that if fuel leaks onto the deck through the heater pipes, serious pollution is guaranteed; I don't usually allow night-time heating at sea, as it's too risky. During the day, the bridge watch watches over the deck, which is better.

Stainless steel submersible pumps are a must. Framo is one of the pioneers.
On a double-hulled vessel, it's ideal.
It changed our lives when my company adopted this more expensive equipment on new ships from 1990 onwards.

https://www-framo-com.translate.goog/ca ... r_pto=wapp







Here we see the cargo heater (the vertical thing in red) with its bypass pipe:
An installation of this type considerably reduces the number of hoses on deck and in the tanks, an asset for maintenance and reliability...










The railings are already printed:

I printed with the MonoX 4K and not the M5s. Just to show the new Chitubox interface.

Wow! Impressive work!

Thanks Martin!







The condensed steam return line to port.



This distilled water returns to the condenser in the machine, even if it's already condensed, as it often can't be due to faulty steam traps.

From the condenser, it descends by gravity into the tank just below the condenser (or deaerator, ( but the term used on board is condenser). The tank is a box/reservoir of a few cubic meters for storing distilled water. The water is then pumped back to the boiler to be transformed into steam and returned to the deck or elsewhere on the ship.



On a motor vessel, the steam circuit is relatively simple; on a steam turbine vessel, it's a different story...

Here's an actual very simple schematic of a steam turbine vessel circuit.

Pascal,

Once again, a most interesting, informative, and technical build - I LOVE IT!!! Excellent work!!!

Hank

Impressive printing, and an education. Cool.

The incomplete print of the bow-section you could turn into an 'accident-at-sea' diorama ...

Tks Hank, Dan, Eberhard.

@Eberhard, That would be a solution.

I've been up to my neck in pipes for a few days now, but thankfully it's coming to an end. Not the most exciting part...

The list of sections:









The first plate only, but in double print. M5s 12K vs MonoX 4K.



I also started painting some elements in bridge red, separately of course, a first coat with modified Matt 60 Enamel Humbrol.

I bought a big stock of it .

I've got a few things to work on for the second coat, so it's easier to see where I need to work with the first coat.

I love this red, which can also be used for anti-fouling. It's less bright and darker in real daylight.

This Scarlett red in daylight looks like this:







We're very close to the International Intergard 740 deck red ECL274 paint we used on board.
The paint is quite shiny at first, but quickly fades after a few weeks, and fortunately, as freshly applied and dry, it slips a lot when the deck is wet. That's why the paths marked on the deck are painted with a �high solids epoxy deck coating LSA� paint, or sometimes epoxy microbeads are added to the can.





Here you can see the gray anti-slip strips used to access the most frequently used areas of the deck, which are almost mandatory to avoid injury.

Personal photo:

I'm making good progress on painting the hull and forecastle.

Assembly is also progressing, with all but the rail and anchor chains glued in place, and two fairleads still missing. Two fairleads are still missing. Also missing are the deck hawsers, those on the reels are installed but not yet glued to the deck with white glue to give them the appearance of natural movement.

The white of the hull is finished.

I've started painting other parts: black, off-white and green. Next will be grey and anthracite black for the pipes.

Coming along nicely

Talking about paint for decks: In several of my later 19th century period books it is mentioned that when painting iron-/steel-decks, the paint should be mixed with abrasive sand in order to give a good foothold, when wet.

That's right.
I've seen sand used when nothing else is available, but it's not ideal, it can contain salt and iron particles.

I've started painting the wooden Douglas deck, but as I was in it and it's time-consuming, I've also made progress on the Delphine's deck by priming it.

Painting the area around the poop deck, I chose the red deck for this part, but it's possible that it was white, difficult to say, no photo clearly indicates whether the colour was light or dark.

Only this one seems to show red. Was the wooden bridge kept at that time?

It seems that it was removed from the upper deck at some point. We know about the problems of corrosion between steel and wood that can occur after a few years of operation. Since steel cannot be maintained, humidity does the rest.

Gluing the porthole gutters that I hadn't seen on the photos, which are missing from the plan. Not easy to glue, it's fragile, white glue is compulsory for placement.

I've made some progress over the last few studious days.
I've started gluing a few elements. But a lot of them haven't been glued yet.

I've still got some touching up to do, surface and paint, but as the larger elements aren't glued together yet it's pretty easy.

Coming on very nicely!

Good river detail!!

thats hard to replicate so sharply by hand...

Best wishes
JB

Tks all! Eberhard, Jim

Assembling the superstructure and painting the details. I always use brushes that are in very good condition, sometimes new, so that I don't have to airbrush out the mistakes and start again, which helps.

I've started laying the pipes for the tank deck. I've reprinted the lifeboats with a garland on each side, which is used in case the lifeboat flips over, so the shipwrecked can hang on to this garland and climb onto the hull of the lifeboat.

Numerous paint and surface touch-ups were carried out to obtain a model worthy of the name. The key word in this phase is to leave no stone unturned, if you want a result that lives up to your expectations. So you have to spend a lot of time fine-tuning even if you have to start over several times.

Received my decals from.. Brazil. I should be happy with the size, a little less for BP.

It's quality.

https://mrmodel.store/en/logos/469-mm01 ... gos-2.html

another useful source!

were they custom made ( ie did you draw them ?)

or stock items?

excellent!