dsk wrote:Neither do I, which is why it was a wild-arsed guess. However it's this landlubber's assumption that redundancy would've been a good thing if you're trying to keep floating ships from bumping into one another.
Well said! Could've been tossed over the side when the explosion went off
If ya lose yer sense of humor...
You've lost everything...
On the Bench:
1/720 Italeri CVN-68 ca 1976/77
1/800 ARii 1/800 CV-59 backdating to 1961 (CVA-59)
1/700Trumpy USS Hornet CV-8 "Doolittle Raiders"
Jon C Ryckert wrote:Makes you wonder where that third anchor is.
Just a thought here, but perhaps it was the anchor she was using on Dec 7th and the wreck is lying on it?
Even if she wasn't using it, the explosion may have broken the chain, thereby dropping the anchor. If the explosion lifted the point of the bow before it sunk, then the anchor would have easily slid under the bow. Unless someone wants to go digging (like that is gonna really happen, or even be allowed) or do a sounding under the bow, we will never know. Fun to speculate though!
ArizonaBB39's line drawing shows great imagination and talent. It has my creative juices flowing. I just happen to have an unbuilt MiniHobby 1/700 Arizona and a Hasegawa Alabama plus some Skywave US Navy weapons and equipment sets. When I'm not working on the Trumpeter 1/200, it could prove to be an interesting build!
As for the Arizona's third anchor, my guess would be that it is laying in the mud near her bow. When those anchor chains were snapped in the explosion, down it went!
John
Now that someone has kindly shown me how easily it is to post pics I can now show what progress I have made. I won't have to bother Tracy anymore and I'm sure he's very happy. . I have to some repair work on the hawse pipes as I broke one and the two on the port side are oversized. I have tried to correct the blister at the forward ends and also I am widening the blisters at the aft end. Hope you like. All comments welcomed as I know that what I have done is not perfect.
I tried to attach more pics but it didn't work for me. Please bear with me. I filled the bow with resin and now you can see how much of the plastic at the bow I sanded away by how much resin is exposed.
Man, I can't wait to see the photos once some of you seasoned pros finally finish your Arizonas. Mine is nearly complete, but even though I'm not a pro I've already found countless things to improve or upgrade on the kit. Those of you who know what to add/change and how to do it are going to be building some serious museum-quality examples of BB-39.
I keep hoping for WEM to release their PE set in time for me to add some of it to my model, but it looks like it'll be too late by then.
Following some "damage" posts here:
Some time ago I've redrawn ship stanchions from the offset tables included in FD plans I have.
Two interesting things showed up:
1. There is a bump in the blister (marked by red arrow) looking almost like a grounding damage or something like this. The blister connection with the hull is "open" in this location.
2. There is no "step" at the transition of the blister and the hull that I've seen on some plans.
I'm just curious what you guys think about this and if somebody knows the origin of the offset tables - are they authentic?
Jon, you're a braver man than me, I wouldn't even try to re-shape the bow for fear of screwing it up! I look forward to seeing your model as you progress. What do you have planned next for your
Arizona?
Good luck, JohnD
John D, before I started to mess with the blisters, I made some changes to those two types of brackets that you see that set ontop of the blisters and connect to the upper hull sides. I'll draw up a pic to show what changes I am making to the larger type. In regards to the smaller brackets , I cut them all off only after I driilled a .02" hole at each end so that I may run some copper wire through the holes thus creating a some what more accurate version. When it comes to the avgas line on the port side, I drilled one .02" hole every 1/8" where the line runs along the hull side. Here I plan to spot glue the avgas line and then run nylon thred through the holes which will give a decent representation of the mounting brackets.
Sorry for the crude drawings but I'm limited in time this morning
Here's the port side aft blister. I just kept laying strips of .02" plastic until I got the thickness I wanted and then filled the areas between the ends of the strips with putty. It is more of a hassle than i thought it would be to get the area where the blister starts to slope away from the hull the way I want it. Still trying to decide on what I am going to do with the aft armor belt over the props and rudder.
Are the blisters too thin aft? I compared the model with a photo of the Pennsylvania and they look OK, are you working from plans? I noticed you have increased the diameter of the barbettes, don't tell me they are too small! What else is wrong with this kit?
Hi JohnD.
I added to the blister because they looked too thin compared to the plans I have and also from some photos I've seen. THe barbettes had .02" plastic sheeting added because of turret two. When I dry fitted the superstructure/boatdeck on my kit, there was a gap of .02" between the barbette of turret 2 and the superstructure/boatdeck. I never compared barbettes deminsions of the kit to any plans, I just did it. The other three barbettes also had the plastic added so that all four would match.
Steph76, I really like the work that you have been doing. I was hoping to see if someone would be using Krystal Klear for the windows and it looks like that is the way to go. Will you do that to the mast? For the various deck level supports, what size of plastic rod did you use. I have some more questions but I'll go back and reread your previous post before I ask. Again, great job your doing.
Jon C Ryckert wrote:Hi JohnD.
I added to the blister because they looked too thin compared to the plans I have and also from some photos I've seen. THe barbettes had .02" plastic sheeting added because of turret two. When I dry fitted the superstructure/boatdeck on my kit, there was a gap of .02" between the barbette of turret 2 and the superstructure/boatdeck. I never compared barbettes deminsions of the kit to any plans, I just did it. The other three barbettes also had the plastic added so that all four would match.
Steph76, I really like the work that you have been doing. I was hoping to see if someone would be using Krystal Klear for the windows and it looks like that is the way to go. Will you do that to the mast? For the various deck level supports, what size of plastic rod did you use. I have some more questions but I'll go back and reread your previous post before I ask. Again, great job your doing.
hello jon c ryckert and thanks
i will do the mast too and for the deck level support i used diameter 0.8 mm.the kristal clear is very good to do windows and he is easy to employed.i think i will finish my arizona in the month.
sorry for my english i hope you understand me.
bye
stef
. I have to some repair work on the hawse pipes as I broke one and the two on the port side are oversized. I have tried to correct the blister at the forward ends and also I am widening the blisters at the aft end. Hope you like. All comments welcomed as I know that what I have done is not perfect.
