1/700 ULCC Ti Europe

[Neptune]

The largest ship I've ever sailed, this ship forms part of a 4-ship class that were the largest double hull tankers ever built. With a capactiy of 3.2million barrels of crude oil, these ships are even larger than the regular VLCC.

I've made an attempt over 10 years ago, after sailing on this vessel, to make a waterline model of her in paper. It was waterlined and never really got anywhere near finished (didn't have a clue about scratch building or where to obtain better materials for it at that time).
Now, after obtaining the necessary skills by building gas carrier models, I'm in for another, much better effort.

Due to her bulk being underwater, I decided to try to make a full hull model of this ship in order to fully grasp the size of these vessels.
It's also part of my effort to keep prototyping, never fully building a model the same way as the one before her. This is the first time I'll attempt a full hull scratchbuild in 1/700. I'm still somewhat undecided as to which method and order to hull construction I will apply. So for now everything is mostly dry fitted in order to allow adjustments once I decide what to do.

I've made a rather odd start due to lack of styrene in appropriate sizes and thickness. That has been solved now, so I hope to make some serious progress soon.

[JIM BAUMANN]

I always like your small scale builds of huge modern ships!�
they are not beautiful (?!!) -- but nevertheless--very interesting!!



JIM B

[Neptune]

Thanks Jim,

she definately isn't the cutest ship around, but she does fit in my colourful collection

Here's some progress. Inserted styrene cylinders (sanded to around 75% of the circumference) in the sides of the main deck. This is feature quite common on tankers as it divides the stress of the hull evenly and avoids concentrating the forces on the corner joint of the deck and the side of the hull.

You can also see the rather large camber of the hull. This is present on most merchant ships to make sure the water drains. On previous models I have not paid too much attention to this, but on this vessel the camber is quite obvious. The weight of water remaining on deck after a wave washing over, would be quite considerable, so it needs to be drained as soon as possible. Only the centre 14m are actually level, outwards of that on both sides the decks goes down. I pre-cut the camber, then bent the deck to represent this and to fit on the top of the frames. I will likely fill the small cuts and sand them smooth later on.

After inserting it, I filed it down to get a more even contact surface using a scrap piece of styrene and a flat file.
I did determin the construction method now and I'm collecting all info about hull shape from the plans in order to get the shape as accurate as possible. In waterline this would be a relatively easy build, but full hull has its complications.

[Neptune]

And another update. Slowly she's starting to get some shape.

For this one I'll keep the deck off until the milliput on the rest of the body is dried and sanded to shape. Experience from previous models with this method, showed me that from time to time the supporting plates to which I attach the milliput afterwards, give way when I push the milliput too hard. In order to prevent this with large size pieces on this model, I will leave off the deck, so I an support the supporting plates from the inside.

Parallel body outline has been attached too now. Will soon add the supporting plates, tangent planes, to support the milliput, my most dreaded job on such a model.

As for thickness, due to the size of this model I've opted to build most pieces of 1.5mm styrene, while the longtudinal is made of 2mm styrene. On smaller size models I only make the frames and longitudinals of 1.5mm while the rest (parallel body plates, deck) is mostly made of 0.75 or 1mm.
In this case I opted for thicker pieces due to the large size and long lengths encountered. Don't want the parallel body plates to be bent.

[Neptune]

And another few steps further now.

Closing the hull with the supporting plates for the milliput shell. I'm using mostly scrap pieces, like the pieces I cut out of the internal frames of this hull. Furthermore I never really throw styrene away, so small sharp triangles etc. I'm now using to full up spaces in order to reduce the amount of expensive milliput.

I'm just finished adding milliput on the bow section. It took a lot more than I expected. I guess I'll have to try and fill more spaces with styrene scrap on the aft section. Experience has throught me that this never works in one go. You always need to do it in two or three layers of milliput as there will always be places where you don't have enough, showing dents in the hull. After initial layer I do sand it down to a good shape to identify the places where I need to add more.

[JIM BAUMANN]

Looking good--always interesting to see these gargantuan fat boats!!



JB

[Neptune]

Hi loyal reader Jim

Here are some pics of the real ship, that show her actual size. When you approach this ship in loaded condition, she looks relatively low. However when you embark or disembark in ballast condition, the crane comes in handy...

And an update. The milliput was first applied to the bow as mentioned before. On the stern I added more styrene to reduce the amount of milliput. Still I'll probably run short of it.
At this moment the stern is covered as well (pics will follow). I've used about 80% of a package of milliput for that. However, some parts are still bare, since I've saved the remaining 20%. I might have enough, but I'm first sanding the initial layer of milliput to identify the places that require additional filler.

[DrPR]

Neptune,

I have seen a few builds where the space between the frames was filled with foam, either with foam blocks or with the expanding foam from a can. The foam was then carved and sanded to the shape of the hull.

I have no experience (yet) with milliput, so I do not know if it would react chemically with the foam. But if it doesn't, it would be easier to use to fill in the spaces than using lots of scrap styrene pieces as filler.

However, carving and sanding foam creates a lot of chips and dust, and some of the expanding foams really stink and must be used in well ventilated spaces. This isn't optimal for working on board a ship.

Any thoughts?

Phil

[Neptune]

Hi Phil,

I've seen that method as well, but used with large scale ships with wooden framework to act as a plug for fibreglassing.

Not sure about it. The reason I'm a bit doubtful is that I have no idea how "hard" the foam would push against the frames. With this rather fragile styrene frame, I'm affraid the foam might bend the frames. Also, once the foam is sanded, it have a lot of open bubbles inside, cavities that would eventually have to be filled with styrene as well, so not sure if there would be a real benefit. Also the Milliput needs to have some thickness for strength, if the framing is filled up with foam, it would require extra sanding to allow for some thickness for sanding afterwards. Not sure if the foam wouldn't compress when the milliput is pushed on it...

Chemically I'm not sure, I do know the PU foam does react with polyester resin, builders therefore cover it with either aluminium foil or other foils to avoid a reaction. I have no experience with milliput on this, but I doesn't appear to react too much with anything apart from its own resin/hardner. It can/has to be mixed with water in order to make it more flexible, but it doesn't really react with it.

[Neptune]

Since I overestimated the strength of the 1.5mm sheeting, I peeled off the deck again to brace the sides and deck more. There was simply too much flexing in the sides and deck, which would eventually lead to cracking at the seams.

Now I re-attached it and it's much better. Also added more filler, so this is where we are.

[ModelMonkey]

[amdownunder]

Hi Neptune, I am taking a lot of interest in your latest build of the tanker, I wouldn't tackle smaller scales, what scale is it,my ship's bow is built in the same method to yours.

Brilliant stuff, fiberglass I will use on the second hull of the same model ship I am modelling, could used it on the first build saving on all that time, does the fiberglass get hard to sand.

Like the bridge can't wait to it finished, my ship too has small cranes, only used for lowing a dinghy down to the water.

Tony from hot down under summer is here

[Neptune]

Hi Tony,

this one's 1/700. Fibreglass is sandable, although on the large tanker you see behind (1/100), I've used a layer of car body filler on top of the fibreglass, allows to correct any shape errors in the hull and keeps the fibreglass shell intact.

Here's a small size comparison, with an unfinished Burke on deck and the unfinished Kuznetsov next to it. The Burke I might finish some time in the future, the Kuznetsov would be very unlikely (10 years old, used enamels back then).

After sanding I corrected and filled some spots on the hull and sanded again. Now she's in the first sacrificial coat of spray putty to spot any additional shape errors. Looks like the bow will need some extra sanding/shaping. Fairly satisfied so far.

[Neptune]

Another update.
Sanded the sacrificial coat of spray putty away and rectified some bumps.
Here the result after sanding, where I identified the main issue on portside bow. Some smaller dents in the bilge area on both sides.

I also inserted small tubes for the anchor bells. A small base plate with correct dimensions was added to give an idea of the actual size while sanding/filing to shape later on.

[Neptune]

Looks like I've been taking pictures, but not updating ever since.

So first batch of corrections to the hull and start of the anchor bells. After the first attempt at anchor bells, I've noticed my hawse pipe diameter was too small to start with, and the bells were overall too small in diameter.
I decided to remove them completely, including drilling out the hawse pipes and replaced it with larger diameter pipes and larger blobs of milliput.

After multiple corrections to the hull, the weather was finally acceptable to apply a second coat of spray filler. I've again identified some small dents (2) and will probably do a small correction to the bow shape on portside before applying a last coat of filler.
Also visible in the pictures is the fact that the frames are slightly protruding from the surrounding milliput. I've noticed this before, but not this strongly. Not sure how this happens, perhaps it's temperature related? In any case a local sanding with a very fine grit should solve that issue.

[amdownunder]

Hi Neptune, wow that is some bow pretty big for that scale, well done she is looking good, I finely finished my ships bow, I have being busy working on inside my ship's bow, making smoke vents.

A question what is is the best to use as lighting, want to light especially where main deck ends be dark when the ship's hull be finished, someone asked me about that., I am thinking of using clear white Led's and wire them in a line on a bus wire.

You still have far way to go, be looking forward to see her finished.

Tony from very hot down under 41 degrees tomorrow, cool change coming in Sunday just in time for Christmas, Merry Christmas and happy new year.

[Neptune]

Although the hull still requires the small touch-ups, I did continue with the rudder and propellor. Although a massive 10m diameter prop, it looks rather small compared to this hull. She does reach 16-19kts depending on load condition and weather.

The propellor does need some small adjustment as well as the aft part where she'll fit, in order to get some more space between the prop and the rudder.

The rudder was simply shaped and sanded/filed from a 2mm thick piece of styrene.

[Neptune]

Nothing spectacular to show. Finally finished the hull, mounted the bilge keel plates. Rudder is fixed as well.

Started putting all entry hatches for ballast and cargo tanks (a lot of them) and some piping. Here's an overview, piping is still dry fitted.

I'll continue with this job untill I start putting the central piping supports. Then I guess I'll give it a first coat before putting the actual central piping in place.

[amdownunder]

Hi Neptune, WOW you sure have come a long way, nearly done, do you still have to add piping, and what sort of filler are you using, my next build I wont be able to use plaster, it be going in the water, wont be happening till the end of the year, when I finish my build. Starting the second stage this week, be a hell of a lot easier to build.

Keep the good work up.

Tony from down under

[Neptune]

Nearly there was quite an overstatement . I sort of just got started I guess.

After a long while, a small update. I've been contuing on the build at a glacial pace, but she's nearly ready for first coat. Wanted to get all the supports for the central piping on before putting a coat of primer. I'm also continuing the piping with the smaller diameter stuff.
Largest ones are 0.5mm brass wire, secondary 0.3mm steel wire and finally some 0.1mm copper wire from electrical appliances.
I plan to put on a grey primer first, to reduce any contrasts before putting any white on top.

These pipes are used for crude oil washing, practically they inject the cargo under relatively high pressure through a rotating (Butterworth) machine, which performs ball shaped cycles inside the tank. This way the oil sprays against the tank walls and cleans off some of the sticky crude. A secondary effect of the pressure is that some of the oil evaporates and creates fumes that help release the heavy particles from the walls.
It's a rather dangerous activity since it generates a lot static electricity, but since the tanks are kept in an inert atmosphere the arcing of that static isn't causing any harm. In the past, before Inert Gas, they did explode from time to time due to this effect.