The Ship Model Forum

very very neat work! :wave_1: :wave_1:

trouble is ...in this large scale you have to add everything !--including every bolthead

bravo! :thumbs_up_1:

JB :wave_1:

I've made the engine room vent using styrene sheet with car body filler used to form the chamfered edges.
[attachment=1]70-001-0129.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0130.JPG[/attachment]

The front section of the wheelhouse was cut out and the three windows marked out and cut out. Then two lengths of angled aluminium were placed upright on the front and held in place with 3M clear tape. This was to give the correct angle for the front window section. The section was taped in place and then liquid plastic glue applied along the joint. Aftfer the glue had set the side windows sections were measured top and bottom to get the correct angles. Once cut out a little filing was needed to ensure a good fit. Then the windows were cut out and the side sections glued in place.
[attachment=2]70-001-0126.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0127.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0128.JPG[/attachment]

Some more work done of the superstructure with lots of sanding and filling and yet more sanding to form the rounded corners. Also started sanding round the edges of the forward deck area.
[attachment=0]70-001-0125.JPG[/attachment]

Cut out from 1mm styrene sheet and fitted the rear window panel of the wheelhouse. Then started to work on the lower half of the front of the wheelhouse using more styrene sheet. Used car body filler paste to fill in the rounded corners.
[attachment=3]70-001-0121.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=2]70-001-0122.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0123.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0124.JPG[/attachment]

Very neat and tidy work! Amazing styrene skills! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Aop

Good clean work :thumbs_up_1:

With the two sides and rear cut out the next step was to cut out the roof section from the plan. Now the pieces could be glued together with poly cement and strips of plastic positioned at the joints to strengthen them. With the rear of the superstructure complete the front section could be started using the card templates previously made. These were placed on the plastic sheet and taped in position and cut out. Then the windows and door openings were roughly cut out and filed to shape. The front top deck and front bulkhead were made from the card templates and then cemented together with 4mm square plastic sections in the corners to support the joints.
[attachment=3]70-001-0117.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=2]70-001-0118.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0119.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0120.JPG[/attachment]

its starting to look shippy! :thumbs_up_1:

Very sharp and crisp! :wave_1:
JB

To answer your question, I started the build in September 2016 but how many hours it has taken i have never calculated. I tend to do an hour here and an hour there when I can. I do a lot of planning so things tend to go right first time but sometimes I do make a mistake and have to start again no matter how much planning I do.

Continuing on with the basic card templates complete the next stage was to start using them to mark out on to 1mm thick plastic sheet and cut them out. The rear sides were cut first and then the windows were cut out, three on each side, only to check the drawings and find the port side had only two. The mistaken third window was filled using some plasticard and the gaps filled with some car body filler and once set sanded back. The rear panel was cut out and then the two windows cut out also.
[attachment=2]70-001-0113.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=3]70-001-0114.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0115.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0116.JPG[/attachment]

Great job! Very crisp building. I do wonder how much time you have spent on this model already? Any idea how many hours? And do you have to redo many things? Or is it going right from the first time on most occasions?
:thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Amazing craftsmanship! Everything seamlessly fits together! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :worship_1: :worship_1:

Regards,
Aop

It is now time to start work on the main superstructure so it was back to the PC to setup and print out the basic shapes of the two sides and rear. The print out were then roughly cut out and glued to some cereal box cardboard using some Evostick contact adhesive to ensure the paper did not expand or shrink. Once applied to the cardboard the side pieces and front deck were cut out and using 3M tape stuck together to check the line along the deck and coaming. These cardboard shapes are to be the templates I will use to make the actual sides using plasticard.
[attachment=2]70-001-0110.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0111.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0112.JPG[/attachment]

The next step in the construction of the model was to fit the deck coaming around the opening. Using 6.4mm x 6.4mm, that�s � inch in old money, Evergreen plastic angle which I glued with cyano to the underside of the plywood deck giving a 4mm lip all round.
[attachment=0]70-001-0109.JPG[/attachment]

thats a great result-


- neat and seamless :thumbs_up_1:

JIM B :wave_1:

Just a bit of an update showing the installation of one of the bulwark hawser that I desgined, modelled and had 3D printed from Shapeways.
[attachment=6]70-001-0103.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=5]70-001-0102.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=4]70-001-0104.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=3]70-001-0105.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=2]70-001-0106.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0107.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0108.JPG[/attachment]

This is a great build. Some of my upcoming projects will be tugs and your build here with the bulwark details will help immensely.

Thanks for posting and I will keep on watching.

James

:thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Nice looking shapes on the bow!

JIM B :wave_1:

With the bulwark top rail glued in place it was initially sanded back with some medium grit wet and dry paper. Next two equal parts of milliput epoxy resin putty were mixed together and applied along the joint and smoothed out using some water to form a thick paste and allowed to set overnight. Using three grades of wet and dry paper from rough through to fine, the hardened milliput was sanded to form a smooth joint along the top rail.
[attachment=1]70-001-0100.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0101.JPG[/attachment]

With all the bulwark stanchions in place on both sides the top rail was added using strips of 3.2mm wide x 1mm thick plastic starting with the two anchor wells and working towards the rear. Around the bow the strip wouldn�t bend to such an acute curve so this section was cut from 1mm thick sheet to the required shape.
[attachment=2]70-001-0098.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=1]70-001-0097.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=0]70-001-0099.JPG[/attachment]