3D printing

[Fliger747]

My friend Hank used to finely sand the platens to help adhesion. Many of the newer platens have a textured surface. I only rarely have this issue, but yes frustrating! be sure to clean out the vat!

[BB62vet]

Potential Catastrophic Failure Incident (PCFI)

I had a print going today and as I was nearby, could hear what sounded like a different noise coming from the printer. Upon inspection, I found that the build plate was grinding away trying to raise and could not. Turned off the printer immediatley and began to mentally try to figure out what was happening. The print was only about 5 minutes into it's run (6 hours total) and so was basically finishing the bottom layers of the print. Somehow, it was stuck on the FEP and wouldn't release. So, what to do????

I began by removing the 4 bolts holding the bracket of the build platform to the lifting arm which released the arm from the bracket and allowed me to slide off the bracket. I then raised the lifting arm up to almost the top to make clear room to work below. I then removed the vat (w/building platform, etc.) and emptied the resin back into the jug (filtering, of course ), and then addressed the problem of the build platform stuck to the FEP. This was the 2nd print today of the same part which I had printed successfully and removed not long before starting the new print run. I don't know the reason, but once the vat was empty, I could put my fingers under it and slightly push the FEP up thus breaking the seal between the FEP and the part - I was thus able to remove the parts without damaging the FEP.

You can see the footprint of the part where suction held the part to the FEP.
I then proceeded to clean the vat and get it ready to print. In addition, the LCD screen & protective sheet on top were unaffected which was a major concern of mine -

This will give me an opportunity to clean the vertical elevation rod before doing the normal resetting of the build platform (Z Lift 0 Setting).

Before I try printing this part again, I am still trying to figure out why this occurred - only 2 causes seem plausible:
1) The location (X/Y) of where the print was located within the printing parameters caused a suction to develop at that spot, or
2) Printing the center of the part directly on the build platform with no supports had created a vacuum when the print began printing the 1st layer on the FEP and this vacuum was just as strong as the resin layer on the build platform which brought things to a halt. I'm glad I was there in the shop when this happened. Had I not been, I'm sure the printer would have gone up in smoke at some point and that would have been an expensive failure!!

One item to note -l I did NOT take the plastic squeegee and drag it across the FEP to basically "clear" that area of the FEP prior to beginning the next print run. It's quite possible that had I done that, this incident would not have happened. I've printed other parts directly on the build platform and never had an issue with sticking to the FEP, as well. Always a first time...

I'm leaning towards redesigning the part adding in a few slots in the circular center disc in order to break a potential suction being created again. But, this is a gamble at best. Any ideas from other 3D designer/printer/modelers is welcomed.

[Iceman 29]

Yes, your centre piece must be sucking.

I haven't been printing directly onto the plate for a long time. The supports allow the air to pass inside the piece. Even with supports, you have to make sure there's enough event in the piece to avoid this phenomenon.

I also run the spatula over the FEP film in the vat full of resin to see if there are any pieces of the previous print stuck to the film.

[BB62vet]

Having cleaned everything up and recalc'd Zero on the build platform, I've begun a new print. I watched/listened to the printer for the first 20 layers being printed at which point the bottom of the parts were completed and it's now building up for the vertical elements - so far everything is working smoothly. This leads me to believe that the problem was that in not squeegeeing the FEP after the last print, somehow a "footprint" was left on the FEP surface that caused the resin to stick to it on the subsequent print - I will be sure to do this small chore from here on out.

25 lashes from The Admiral would normally be the suitable punishment for committing a PCFI, but since she DOESN'T know this occurred, I've spared myself both the embarrassment and beating...a win-win situation as I see it!!!!!

Hank

[JerryTodd]

Bought a new Elegoo Mars 3 the beginning of November and started printing parts...

for Constellation

Rigging-screws (turnbuckles) for Constellation

A stove for Macedonian

1:36 scale Brodie stove for a 38 gun ship

Stove with a coat of paint

The STL for the stove is on Thingiverse

[Iceman 29]

Very nice printing at this scale ! 1/36.

[JerryTodd]

Merci Iceman

I love your Bretagne build, merci beaucoup for sharing it with us here.

Addendum: Printed Constellation's 2nd cutter...

2nd cutter stacked on the 1st cutter alongside the launch

[mikegr]

have printed some twin bofors for 1/700 - 1/600 scale

[BB62vet]

Well, I've discovered that buying cheap is not always buying "Smart". To wit - I thought that I'd save some money by using "cheapo" no-name paper towels from Wally World rather than the rather expensive brand of towel (Bounty). Turns out that this was a BIG mistake - the cheapos don't absorb anything nearly as well as the expensive brand and as a result, there is no savings in cost, but a large expense in the usage to clean up the same amount of printer parts that is required after each print run.

Normally, I always clean the build platform completely and then the area around the printer that may have had resin spill on it while removing the build platform & parts from the printer. Of course, if you're detanking the vat that will also require quite a few paper towels, so the entire effort can get somewhat "towelly"!! I still have two rolls of the cheap stuff, so will suffer thru that and then go back to buying a bundle of Bounty as those towels really work the best.

Hope this resonates with others doing 3D printing and gives some practical guidence.

Hank

[Fliger747]

A poke from Hank got me looking for my file of the stokes litters which I used on several warships. We both looked extensively and couldn't find the file so both of us made new ones. My previous one was just the frame, no mesh, so I got the wild hare and decided to add a very fine mesh. I had no idea if this would print and to y surprise it both printed well and also looked quite good. This was followed up by completing and printing an SA Radar for the Whitehurst DE project to replace the bare frame one previous. Again, if it is supported by a frame, a very fine mesh can be printed successfully.

[Fliger747]

Again the "Wah hail" aspect of modeling surfaces. Major VAT leak (not a tax issue) on my printer, getting under the tape and all over the LCD. Amazingly I was able to soak it with an alcohol cloth and pop the resin off with a fingernail. However trying my very first Fusion 360 design (USN 40 ' Motor Launch for Poseidon) , It printed exactly nothing despite having the usual displays on the front panel. When I get a chance, I'll try printing some small previously successful item. If nothing it's take the printer apart and see if it's repairable. Since it was sliced using my normal slicer and showed the print footprints on the front, I don't think it's the 360.

I don't think that electrical tape is best as it shrivels with resin contact. I do have some aviation 500 mph metal tape but not sure that comes off well.

[Fliger747]

Printer is dead, long live the printer! Ordered Any Cubic Mono 5s Pro, will be here eventually. Would like thoughts on a good resin to use with this unit?

Slowly learning Fusion 360 by lots of trial and more error. With unreliable internet (Satellite regularly goes behind trees) a cloud based program can be irritating.

Not a cloud fan, prefer sunshine and stars.

[Fliger747]

As a part of 3D printing one has to devise files. Hank and I have successfully used design Spark mechanical fro a number of years but it has some limitations when it comes to hull design, lacking a mirror is one. With that in mind I have at the expense of considerable salty language made some progress in Fusion 360, despite Autodesk's hurdles they pose for the home user.

Small boats seem to be a reasonable place to begin and I have been working on the trusty USN WWII 26' MWB. This is just a trial technique balloon to explore the necessary technique.

[Fliger747]

Wah hail...

Wife gets message from PO, package (3D printer) returned. Typical Alaska deal, Vendors seldom specify method of delivery, PO or FEDUP and a physical address doesn't cut the mustard for a PO Box delivery.
Ha!

[BB62vet]

Here's a question for the 3D printer guys out there -

I'm using an AnyCubic Photon Mono X 6K printer and trying to print using Phrozen Tough Gray resin (a new SLA resin that just came on the market) - does anyone know the correct Settings in Chitubox for this combination?

I am having a time getting these settings to produce a part - and I'll admit I have little experience in where to start with this but have a question or two about it:
1) Do you start with the settings that Phrozen states for a similar printer of their brand?
2) Or do you start with the setting for a similar type of resin that is made by your printer manufacturer?

Obviously, any help on this issue would be immensely appreciated!!!

T.I.A.,

Hank

[NavyShooter]

I've taken up the job of getting some cargo ship work done for a buddy - he wants a conversion of the Liberty Ship to a Park ship - so...here's what we ended up with:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6873845

Not perfect, but close enough for his model railroad setup. It's a modification (with permission) of the Johnbuttery Liberty Ship model.

Next up is the 20mm Oerlikon twin mount that I put together. Looks pretty much the part - I'm pleased.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6869601

Then - I took the other Liberty ship file that's on Thingiverse from Jaberwok and modified that into a pretty close match of HMS Puncher:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6869595

Currently printing the Puncher.

Note - in the picture below, the Park is printed at N Scale - 1/160, and the Puncher is printed at 1/144.

[JerryTodd]

Most recent parts for a rag-boat A 1:36 scale RC model of HMS Macedonian c.1812

32 pounder Carronade

Model in the slicer

Blomefield in the slicer

18 pounder Blomefield gun

test-print of the carronade

test-print of the Blomefield

Modeling the capstan based on a drawing from NMM

[Iceman 29]

A lot of facets on the barrel, which is a shame. Setting up the 3D drawing programme?

[JerryTodd]

A lot of facets on the barrel, which is a shame. Setting up the 3D drawing programme?

That barrel was done by someone else, and the cartouche was lifted on the surface, draginf some of the geometry along. I made a fresh barrel and laid the cartouche into it separately. It's still relatively "low-poly" but it's better. I changed out the model on Thingiverse too

[Iceman 29]

That's much better!