The Ship Model Forum

The 1.1" between the front four and rear four 5" guns were at an intermediate level relative to the decks that the 5" guns were on, not at the level of the upper (forward) 5" guns. The second and third graphics from Model Monkey are correct. I'm pretty sure I have a hard copy photo showing this clearly, but haven't made a digital copy so could not post, but it is still evident in this June 1942 view of Portland if you zoom in on the relevant area. I just wanted to emphasize this, since some Indy kits have the 1.1" at exactly the same level as the four forward 5", and that is an error for 1942 Portland.

I should probably have been a bit more precise on the 1.1 elevation. They were a little lower than the forward 5", but were definitely elevated above the after 5".

Here are a couple of images for reference of USS PORTLAND (CA-33) in early 1942. First one is a view of PORTLAND at MINY in the background of a photo for another ship dated 15 February 1942 (interesting that there aren't any photos from her MINY visit on Navsource, but it may have been only a short visit/repair). The second image is the same one posted earlier, but this one will be at a higher-res.

I cannot find the link, but I have read that they had both a Blue Paint and a Blue Stain for the decks.

Both tended to darken with age.

MB

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Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16

Seeking accurate overall dimensions of the anchors. Any help is appreciated.

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-Steve L.

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Any idea what the weight of the anchors was?

Phil

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A collision at sea will ruin your entire day. Aristotle

No clue. As you know, that would certainly help solve the problem of designing an accurate one. I'd like to design some anchors for CAs and CVs but am having trouble finding their dimensions and weights.

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

For reference the Clevelands had 13,000 pound Navy stockless bower anchors (Navy versions are slightly different from some commercial versions).

The Portland class and Cleveland class had the same displacement - 10,000 tons - so they may have used the same anchors.

The anchors may not have been exactly the same on similar ships, or both anchors may not have been the same on a given ship. While modeling the USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 I noticed that the two anchors were slightly different. I thought that was odd. Then while reading through the ship's histories I found that CL-91 had lost the starboard anchor and 25 fathoms of chain in the Delaware Bay in April 1945 on the first post-shakedown cruise. The Philadelphia Navy Yard sent a new one out on a barge.

Here is a drawing of a Navy stockless anchor. This is the type used on the Clevelands. For the 13,000 pound anchor:

A = 100"
B = 77-3/8"
C = 46-5/8"
D = 71-1/16"
E = 22"
F = 18-3/8"
G = 3-15/16"
H = 14-1/8"
J = 12-5/16"

The Floating Drydock has an excellent set of 22500 pound anchor drawings showing all dimensions and fluke cross sections, with a table of dimensions for all sizes of Navy anchors. It was done by a friend of mine, Alexy Burdin (his beautiful CAD model of the USS Slater DE-766 is what inspired me to put insane amounts of detail into my CAD model of the USS Oklahoma City CLG-5).

Phil

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A collision at sea will ruin your entire day. Aristotle

Brilliant, Phil!

I'll offer 13,000 lb. anchors, specified for Clevelands, and let the modeler decide if it is appropriate for their cruiser builds.

Your CAD design is "wicked cool".

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

On the Midship Portland, which has the forward Deckhouse too wide, how much of that would I have to narrow to get it correct?

I am debating whether I can get by with narrowing it by two deck plank widths on each side of the hull (which would be roughly 3mm - 4mm), leaving me just one line to scribe for the missing planking (something that is doable), OR whether I should just take it in to where I used to work to have the forward deckhouse milled off (along with .01" of the deck, as I have the Wooden Decks made for the conversion), and then buy the forward superstructure from Model Monkey to complete the kit (I may buy it anyway, since it looks to be easier than building the resin parts, and contains better detail).

But.... If I can get by with just filing down the forward deckhouse by 3-4mm, then I will do that.

MB

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OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16

See the April 2014 post with drawings of the two deck houses overlaid earlier in this thread.

Thank you.

I suspected that this might have been discussed.

MB

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OMG LOOK! A signature

Working on:


1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16

With all the MM conversion parts in hand I have started to undertake the conversion. I will list, as I go along, what I find and if the work progresses as I have planned. My first goal is to have all parts modified and dry fit before I start actual model assembly.

1. Using the PM !942 drawings I had Staples rescale the 400 plan and elevation to 700 scale. This (for me) is a must for fixing the positioning of the aircraft handling and fore decks before I start cutting. The rescaled drawing is a "direct match" to the Tamiya kit.

2. I intend to work from the stern forward using the Tamiya hanger location as the "baseline" to position the aircraft handling deck. MM has indicated that this piece has some extra for trimming.

3. Once done, I will trim that deck to fit all directions except forward. Dry fitting only.

Comments and questions are welcome.

Steve

As part of my planning for the Tamiya conversion (posted above) I have been unable to determine the extent of an aft cross deck bulkhead below of the aft 5" gun deck. There are no posted photos of this area that I have found nor does the MM part include a bulkhead. I suspect there is a limited but open area on both sides of the aft tower structure to allow access to facilities and storage below the 5" gun deck. Any help will be appreciated.

Steve, Really looking forward to your build! Best wishes to you on a challenging conversion project!

Yes, your suspicion is correct, that deck is open under the AA deck for quite a distance.

You can see just how far forward in this pre-war photo taken before plating was added to cover the large opening in the shell (hull). Compare the position of the mostly hidden transverse bulkhead in question with the position of the 5"/25 guns above. By 1942, plating containing four portholes had been added covering the large opening but the small openings remain. The new plating's portholes appear to standard 12" diameter "airports". The original shell portholes forward of the new plating appear to be 16".


And some other photos that may help. Note that there is a perforated plate at the outer edge.

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Have fun, Monkey around.™

-Steve L.

Complete catalog: - https://www.model-monkey.com/
Follow Model Monkey® on Facebook: - https://www.facebook.com/modelmonkeybookandhobby

Progress so far:

1. The Tamiya fore deck, hull side plating and the aft deck have been trimmed for addition of MM parts. I need to do minor adjustments, fabricate several transverse bulkheads and do some minor modification to the Tamiya kit plastic parts to accept these parts. I will have completed all this work by the weekend and dry fit the major structures (except for the upper bridge assemblies). A prime coat is also needed to see the detail of these parts.

2. Observations:
a. The rescaled PM plan is a must for positioning the decks before cutting anything.
b. Steve Larsen's post cleared up the extent of the after cross deck bulkhead.
c. The Tamiya 5" platform decks help to accurately position the side plating that supports them.
d. The hull must be tack glued to the waterline plate so the fore deck and aircraft handling deck can be accurately trimmed.

3. Pictures:
Will attempt to post this weekend or if I fail, to email them to anyone interested.

Steve G.

http://i.imgur.com/HMytScd.jpg

Test photo maybe this time!

All MM components "rough" positioned for general fit except for bridge parts. Some primer applied for visibility (clear parts). Added the Tamiya 8" turrets for a better perspective. Currently need to fabricate several cross deck bulkheads to complete fit up. This is a very do-able conversion for old guys like me who only like to do OTB plastic.

Steve

Steve,

Good photo; you're off to a great start. Please consider posting in the WIP section; strongly suspect you'll have a large following. I have an old Matchbox kit that may now have some use!

Please keep posting.

Best Regards,

Mac

PS: Steve Larsen - your parts look awfully good.

Okay, its finally time. I'm going to start the basic CAD design work for the prewar Indy bridges. My question is, what do you all suggest in way of a parts breakdown? Other than the bridges themselves, what else is mission critical to convert the Academy 1.350th Indy into her gorgeous 1930s light gray self? I'd like the conversion to be as cost effective and simple as possible to save the modeler on costs.

Sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this in, but I thought a thread on the Portlands would be the right place.

Many thanks for any suggestions.

Bob

Any plans to offer that in 1/700 too? As far as parts break down, perhaps the way Steve (ModelMonkey) has done for his 1942 Portland offerings would be a good way to do it. Or since 1/350 is bigger perhaps do each deck level as a separate offering.

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