Problems cutting Gold Medal Models PE

[TheDuneSea]

I am sure I am not the only one but the search function did not deliver any answers.

So, I am having serious troubles working with 1/700 GMM photo etch as all the blades (high quality modeling & surgical blades that go through almost everything like a hot knife through butter) I use won�t really cut it from the frame. Either the parts come off severely bent, there is a lot of cleaning necessary or the blade is damaged.
So I thought about getting some super fine scissors. What are your preferred tools when it comes to really sturdy PE parts?

Best regards,

TheDuneSea

[Timmy C]

What blade shape are you using and what surface are you cutting on? I don't have issues (well, not any more issues) cutting with a curved blade on a piece of ceramic tile.

[MM2CVS9]

I use just a standard curved Exacto blade. I used to use a ceramic tile for the cutting board, but switched to a piece of 1/2" thick UHMW plastic.

I cut the sprue close to the waste part of the fret, then trim it close with one of two Xuron shears designed for cutting brass or stainless steel PE, # 9180 (Longer), # 440 (shorter). Then, with a swipe or two from a diamond hone (bought at a fishing supply place, used for sharpening fish hooks I think), lightly dress the edge.
Just takes a bit of patience.



EJ

[David Griffith]

Try using a proper Swann-Morton scalpel blade. They are much more robust than X-Acto, which I have always found to chip and blunt as soon as you look at them. As above, use a curved blade on a ceramic tile or a sheet of glass.

Another idea. Try turning the fret over and cut from the back side. It gives a slight gap under the attachment point when you cut, and that can be easier.

The material that GMM use for their photo-etch is very tough, and I find it harder to work with too.

Regards, David Griffith.

[Joseph Dunlap]

After going through a great many #11 blades and having the tips break, I started using a narrow X-acto chisel blade with most of it ground away until only 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch is left. This allows adaquate pressure to make the cut with no worries of the blade breaking. It also allows for re-sharpening using first 6K and then 12K sanding film

[spejic]

Do not use #11 blades to cut photoetch parts on a hard surface like ceramic tile. The tip can fly into your eye and it really really hurts.

I used a curved blade (I like the #12) and just keep a sharpening stone nearby when I'm doing that kind of cutting.

[Ragnar]

One thing I learned when working with super small details is to wear my Optivisors , not only great for magnifying these tiny bits but protects the eyes also!